Someone Talk Me Into This...
#21
Well, I am pretty sure the front ends are one of the weak links...I would consider swapping in a solid front diff if the front end isnt up to the task.
My main motivation for looking into a Duramax is to get something with a much better ride as well as a MUCH nicer interior and more cab space.
What about EFI Live? Ive heard good things.
My main motivation for looking into a Duramax is to get something with a much better ride as well as a MUCH nicer interior and more cab space.
What about EFI Live? Ive heard good things.
Looks like it is in good shape, if the price is right get it!!
I haven't heard of the tow/haul button thing before.
#22
go for it, doc. i really don't think you'll regret it. we had very, very few problems at the dealership with the trucks. check if the guy has a good maintenance and service history.
i can run the vin through GM for you if you'd like.
i think aaron is right. you'll probably hate the lift but you can always change it out at some point.
i can run the vin through GM for you if you'd like.
i think aaron is right. you'll probably hate the lift but you can always change it out at some point.
#24
#26
here's what i can think of for "common" issues:
HVAC fan only works on high- blower resistor
clunking/knocking noise from steering column when turning- when i left they had just released another updated intermediate steering shaft for this. i'll check into monday and see if they're still using it.
sliding tow mirrors stuck- remove protective boot and apply graphite power to mirror tracks
"service 4x4" message- USUALLY a bad ground or failed dash switch.
inner tie rod ends and hubs- self explanatory
speedo inop or sticks- usually a cluster
the first few years with the allison had park/neutral switch issues but i think they were resolves by '04.
the tow/haul button was problematic in the first couple of years of the body style. seems like '02 or '03 they got it figured out.
some LLY's had issues with glow plugs.
u joints- we saw a lot of u joints in the rear drive shaft. usually start seeing them go around 70K.
i think that's all i can remember for now. i'll add more if i think of them doc.
and i'm in no way saying these happen to every and all trucks. most had 2 of the same issues above at most. and they're mostly inexpensive issues too.
there's very little maintenance too unlike our trucks. fuel filters and oil changes. every 30K they want you changing the external trans filter. GM told us per allison that the internal trans filter should never need changing. i don't know if i buy "never" but you should get at least 100K if not more.
oh, make sure that there is synthetic in the front diff. IIRC '04 was when they started recommending synthetic in the front diffs of cold climate trucks. again, real easy to take care of.
HVAC fan only works on high- blower resistor
clunking/knocking noise from steering column when turning- when i left they had just released another updated intermediate steering shaft for this. i'll check into monday and see if they're still using it.
sliding tow mirrors stuck- remove protective boot and apply graphite power to mirror tracks
"service 4x4" message- USUALLY a bad ground or failed dash switch.
inner tie rod ends and hubs- self explanatory
speedo inop or sticks- usually a cluster
the first few years with the allison had park/neutral switch issues but i think they were resolves by '04.
the tow/haul button was problematic in the first couple of years of the body style. seems like '02 or '03 they got it figured out.
some LLY's had issues with glow plugs.
u joints- we saw a lot of u joints in the rear drive shaft. usually start seeing them go around 70K.
i think that's all i can remember for now. i'll add more if i think of them doc.
and i'm in no way saying these happen to every and all trucks. most had 2 of the same issues above at most. and they're mostly inexpensive issues too.
there's very little maintenance too unlike our trucks. fuel filters and oil changes. every 30K they want you changing the external trans filter. GM told us per allison that the internal trans filter should never need changing. i don't know if i buy "never" but you should get at least 100K if not more.
oh, make sure that there is synthetic in the front diff. IIRC '04 was when they started recommending synthetic in the front diffs of cold climate trucks. again, real easy to take care of.
Last edited by Johnny Cetane; 10-14-2007 at 02:21 PM.
#27
#28
2005 if I'm not mistaken is the first full year of the DMAX CP3 truck with a lift pump? If so, you'll need to consider how that works. Read FASS upgrade there. Limited room under the hood for things like Twins, Exhaust Brake and other kinds of upgrades may prove problematic.
There has not been a Duramax with a factory issued lift pump, but they have all had CP3's since the inception of the motor. If you plan on upgrading to a larger program, a good lift pump supply is always recomended.
#29
I wouldn't go past 500-550RWHP on stock internals. The 2005 has the LLY engine in it. Pat McSwain out in Cali is the best at tuning the Lilly with efi live, and sells his efi with a 500hp
tune. As far as the front end put on some tie rod sleeves and lower the torsion bars and you will be fine for pulling. Banks stuff is over priced and as far as the Dmax goes if you want tuning go with Efi live or if you want a hand held tuner go with PPE. A good tune, a lift pump and a tranny upgrade to hold the power and you will get to 500rwhp. Good luck, and nice looking truck.
tune. As far as the front end put on some tie rod sleeves and lower the torsion bars and you will be fine for pulling. Banks stuff is over priced and as far as the Dmax goes if you want tuning go with Efi live or if you want a hand held tuner go with PPE. A good tune, a lift pump and a tranny upgrade to hold the power and you will get to 500rwhp. Good luck, and nice looking truck.
#30