I have it down to 8 hours working on my own, thats with all the cleaning and prepping involved also.

its alot of work, probably the most annoying part is to get the valve covers off, some of the bolts can be a pain and they can strip if you are not careful enough.

and the injector return lines ones can strip also, when i remove them i use come channel locks and then use the allen bit and tighten it to spec

 

Thanks for the tightening sequence and torque values......a big help!!!

 

just tossin this out there for some guys that are new to this, you dont have to use the torque sequence on the valve covers, nor do you need to torque them just make them tight enough to not leak, do not round them out, i had to use an air grinder to cut the heads off a couple of mine b/c the guys that did them before me tightened them too much,

also i recomend puttin bolts w/ heads on them in the valve covers, i only did on the ones under the fire wall but if i had to do it again i would change them all out if you plan on keepin the truck, just go to advance auto and take one of the valve cover bolts w/ you, get the same size just w/a head on them, if you want the exact size i can get it for you, i know my bottom ones are a 10mm head and the top ones are an 8mm head, and its much easier!

 

Good idea!!

 

i can do both sides in like 3hrs a piece, im gettin really good at, but i dont take much off just to do the injectors, i leave 99% of the top of the motor on there,

to get my driver side lower valve cover gasket to stay in place (since i didnt take barely anything off and it caught on everything) i used zip ties, tightend them and it held the gasket perfect, the put a couple bolts in tight enough to hold t he gasket in place and cut the zip ties pulled them out and went to town puttin bolts back in haha,

 

So For you guys that have done this, i have a leaking fuel line on the #8 cylinder (back drivers side closest to the firewall) how did you torque the fuel line to 30ft/Lbs ??? is there some kind of standoff open ended adapter for a torque wrench?

Also had another question in regards to replacing injectors, mine were replaced at 47K miles, truck has 69k miles, but i do not believe they replaced any of the fuel lines between the injector and the rail, considering the corrosion you guys are talking about, what it be better to replace all 8 fuel lines, or do it right and replace all 8 injectors and lines at the same time?

 

the fuel lines are expensive, your better off getting he corrosion on them blasted off.

i used a crows foot on a trq wrench to tighten down the injector lines

 

haha dude i didnt torque my actual fuel lines that go from the rail to the injectors, i've actually never ever torque'd one of those in my life, tighten them things tight, i mean damn tight, guess i didnt even check what the specs for those are but im pri at like triple that spec haha,

the only thing you really need to worry about torqueing is the injector hold downs, and the fuel return lines, other then that the valve cover bolts, and injector lines dont really need torque'd but its totally up to you, like i said i always crank them things on extremely tight

 

if you tighten the injector lines too hard you can actually twist the injector in its hold down. and then you can end up with a messed up return line seal which would then leak diesel into the oil

 

when mine was in the hold down it wouldnt move, i played w/ them they were a nice fit, i've had no problems, not sayin that it cant happen, but in the hold down they shouldnt be able to move much if any,