I've had my 2002 LB7 since it was new. Currently 288,000 miles and the injectors have been replaced 3 times (once by me). NEVER had a problem starting due to injectors, but I did crack the plastic bleeder screw on top of the fuel filter once and that caused it to not start unless I bled the system each time I wanted to start it.

 

you had a rare situation indeed. at least 50% of the time it is due to high return rates that prevent the engine from starting. just google "Duramax injector ball seat erosion"

i would say that all of the failures likely fall into one of these five categories: cracked bodies, ball seat erosion, stuck/sticking pintle, clogged or worn nozzle or failed solenoid.

the cracking was solved with a new/better alloy.

for the ball and seat issue, Bosch started hardening and chrome plating the ball and seat. this helped but did not solve it.

suck pintles and clogged nozzles, nothing Bosch could do here but better filtration helps.

failed solenoid, i seem to be the only one with this??? had two go out like this.

injectors can also fail with more then one of these issues.

 

This is awesome but pics arent showing anymore...

Thanks for the time involved.

 

Pic r still their just need wifi

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Just got mine put in running good this post was a great help when pretty smooth took a while but worth it 2002 first set put in at 84000 at dealer 2nd set put in at. 162000 has been going bad for last 10000 mi glad to have them changed last time I like my truck but this is a costly problem had a 96 dodge cumins 234000 no problems with motor at all just needed crew cab 1 more problem with duramax Goinng back to dodge

 

Well, here it is, ~4 years and 84,000 miles later and I'm doing injectors again. At least it's predictable. Stumbled on a new "trick" for getting valve cover bolts out. Several comments on this thread about stripping out the allen head valve cover bolts. This happens because over the years and miles, the allen "socket" in the head of the bolt fills with dirt and crud, and when you stick the allen wrench into the bolt head, it won't go all the way in. I've been using small ball peen hammer to drive the allen driver into the bolt and that works good... until you get back by the firewall and you have no room to swing the hammer. Here's the trick---- A Torx driver works great here. Specifically, a size 30A Torx bit fits perfect but you don't have to drive it in with a hammer. It fits good enough to break loose the tightest bolts - so if you're having the same problem, try it. Works great!


Edit: I really hate having to do this every ~80k miles but just did some math. If you're doing the work yourself and paying $201.75 for injectors like I am, it cost about 2 cents a mile for injectors. Not bad, but still a royal PITA I could do w/o. Just don't want to pay $55k for a new truck that has all that pollution crap on it.

 

Hello new to the forum. Great write up alot of time to do this!!
I have been turning wrenches for many years & have been using valve grinding compound on fasteners so the tool wont slip & strip out it works great. Just put a dab on fastener head or inside tool & I very seldom use allen sockets I use torx bits they usually fit (sometimes a little tap with hammer) & don't strip out as easy. Try the compound it really works great & has saved me countless hours over the years.. Just make sure to clean it out good if using on lubed parts like inside engines or transmissions!!!

 

Finished installing this set of injectors. Also adjusted the valve lash while I had it torn down. I didn't spend any time trying to measure how much clearance they had before I adjusted them but I would say they were at anywhere from .015 all the to maybe .025 - possibly more on a couple. Anyway, it made HELL of a difference in how loud the motor is when running. Wished I had done it last time I changed the injectors!

 

wow!! looks like a lot of work but awesome nice job!!

 

Just about done with mine also.

Attaching valve adjustment guide, and pdf version of this write up.

Valve Adjustment.pdf

LB7 Injector Install Guide Part 1.pdf

LB7 Injector Install Guide Part 2.pdf

LB7 Injector Install Guide Part 3.pdf

 

I didnt take the time to read all 12 pages so I apologize if I duplicate info.

1. Getting the upper valve cover off was super easy by using a tall socket ( I used a 1/2 inch drive wobble) to use as a pedestal to use a crow bar style pry bar the tap up. Broke the seal free very easily.

2. I had a crazy no start condition after I was done, a day of mucking about with it and it turns out to be a few bent pins in the lower big connector mounted on the drivers side valve cover.

I also changed the CP3 and replaced with a LBZ because it was less expensive. So far no idle or run problems with the LBZ FPR. Hope one of those tips helps someone else out there.

I just did this job over the weekend, about 12-15 hours total, first time doing it, no manual, just this post (fantastic BTW). Basic tools and a garage can make this an easy but lengthy DIY job. I will be doing the Dual Cat filter and lift pump addition shortly along with addatives to help this set live longer. My truck is new to me but had injectors changed at the dealer at 154K and now has 206K.