Just started doing this a couple days ago. First time I noticed just a really short miss. Then it started doing it to the point I can't drive it. It starts and runs totally fine anywhere from one to twenty or thirty minutes.

I just filled it up with $125 worth of diesel and I'm living on the edge right now so it's really pissing me off!

I read some of the other similar threads and checked the simple things like the 4 grounds and the relay and the fuel lift pump. It still ran when I unplugged each of those so it's not that. (Well not the grounds but the nuts are tight and they look fine.)

Just wanted to see if there was something else obvious before I get a new remote mounted pmd. I don't even know what pmd stands for!

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My brother said maybe water in the fuel so I'm going to get some fuel separator and see what that does. Can't hurt right?

 

You're not going to want to hear this but.....97% chance it's the pump mounted driver (PMD) from your description.

In laymans terms; the PCM sends the fueling signal to the PMD, the PMD triggers the fuel solenoid on the IP. The fuel solenoid directs fuel to the injectors at the right rate, pulse width and timing.

PMD no worky...engine no run.

Get a hold of a scan tool (some auto stores will lend them out) and see what codes are in the PCM....

 

Thanks Great White.

So it looks like my choices are $275 w/ 1 yr warranty; $400 w/ 2 yr or $550 for 7 yr...

I'm thinking I'll just get 2 from ebay for less than $100. I'll make sure they both work and then just keep one in the truck in case I need it. I only drive this truck about 5000 miles a year so it's hard to put a lot of $ into it.

 

make sure you get a heat sync, FSD or stanadyne, everything else you never know how last they long

 

Thanks so much for the responses.

So I finally got around to getting a new pmd. All the things I read about installing one says "so easy a child could do it" "15 minutes max" etc etc. But mine appears to be underneath the radiator hose and below and squished against the intake manifold. Am I missing something here? I was thinking of mounting it remotely (and just leave the old one where it is) but it doesn't look like I will even be able to unhook and rehook the wiring... Is that what I'm supposed to do? Leave the old one in place?

 

Unless you want to pull the intake off just to pull the old dead PMD out, you can leave it where it sits. You can unplug and plug the PMD in in the factory location without taking anything back off but it is not the easiest job. The bad part about leaving it is that you won't be able to retrieve the calibration resistor out of the old PMD so you will have to fork out the money for another one.
The remote mount setup for the PMD is the best way to go with these trucks.

The lift pump is critical on these trucks. Yours is a '99 so you should be able to hear the continuous clacking of the pump when you turn the ignition on. If you don't hear anything, you need to fix that.

 

So I replaced the PMD and mounted it in the bumper on a heat sink. Works like a charm. I didn't get the calibration resistor out and went to get one at the dealer and they said there is no such thing so I just didn't put one in. I can't tell any difference but if I do notice a difference when pulling my boat I'll do something about it later.

Like I said before I am living on the edge so I bought one of the cheaper PMD's on ebay. But not a used one. It was $220 with shipping and claimed to be built to withstand higher temps etc. I'll report back if it fails... here's the one I got:

6.5L GM DIESEL PMD (PUMP MOUNTED DRIVER (5009) | eBay

let me know if you aren't supposed to post a link like that and I'll remove it.

Thanks so much for the replies and getting me back on the road. This is the only vehicle that fits all my kids! I really love that you guys are here helping us out.