Chevy/GMC 6.2L and 6.5L Discussion of Chevy and GMC Trucks with 6.2L and 6.5L Diesel Engines

1994 6.5 Wont start

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  #31  
Old 03-08-2012, 12:38 PM
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Where is the fuel shut off
 
  #32  
Old 03-08-2012, 01:12 PM
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Keep in mind I'm a DS4 guy and it's been a long while since I've messed with a DB2 but I seem to recall it's in/under the top cover....

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Googling:

The fuel shut-off solenoid moves the governor linkage, which in turn rotates the metering valve.
When the ignition is off, the solenoid is no longer energized and the return spring pulls the shut-off rack to the "OFF" position, which through the governor linkage rotates the metering valve to cut off fuel.




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Here it is again:



Article to go with the last pic: Stanadyne DB2 Injection Pump - Diesel Engine - Diesel Power Magazine
 

Last edited by great white; 03-08-2012 at 01:14 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #33  
Old 03-08-2012, 01:14 PM
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Okay thank you I'll let u all know tonight I'll throw one on at 8
 
  #34  
Old 03-08-2012, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by EvanBoothe
Okay thank you I'll let u all know tonight I'll throw one on at 8

Have a close look at the wires before you tear it apart. A simple broken wire or corroded connector will give a no start.

I'd check for 12V at the fuel shut off solenoid connector with the key on also. No power needs to be traced back to the problem.

Not sure if it's fused or not....worth a check also...
 
  #35  
Old 03-08-2012, 07:38 PM
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When I turn the key on an touch the wires on those two terminals on top the fuel injector you can hear them click so it is getting power

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Well I went to all the parts stores and they said there's no such thing as a fuel **** off selenide
 

Last edited by EvanBoothe; 03-08-2012 at 07:38 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #36  
Old 03-08-2012, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by EvanBoothe
When I turn the key on an touch the wires on those two terminals on top the fuel injector you can hear them click so it is getting power

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Well I went to all the parts stores and they said there's no such thing as a fuel **** off selenide
That's because you have to buy a pump to get it from a parts store.

A stanadyne dealer/service store would be able to source one. Sometimes they can be found on eBay.

But if it's working with key on, your problem is likely elsewhere.

This is an odd problem.

I sincerely hope it's not a sheared drive pin.

I'd check the inlet fuel screen next.

I kinda wish a db2 guy with some experience would pitch in here....




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Last edited by great white; 03-08-2012 at 07:58 PM.
  #37  
Old 03-08-2012, 08:50 PM
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Where is this fuel screen

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I took the back filter out and it is pretty black

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Originally Posted by great white
That's because you have to buy a pump to get it from a parts store.

A stanadyne dealer/service store would be able to source one. Sometimes they can be found on eBay.

But if it's working with key on, your problem is likely elsewhere.

This is an odd problem.

I sincerely hope it's not a sheared drive pin.

I'd check the inlet fuel screen next.

I kinda wish a db2 guy with some experience would pitch in here....




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if I take the line off the injecter pump and tap the wire on the back terminal while the key is on. I get little bitty squirts of fuel
 

Last edited by EvanBoothe; 03-08-2012 at 08:50 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #38  
Old 03-09-2012, 04:13 AM
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A black filter is not necessarily bad, but it's been there a while. Wouldn't hurt to change it but it's unlikely it is your issue. Mine was pitch black last time I changed it but the truck was running fine:



This is a ford db2, but it's essentially identical for the purpose if showing the screen location:



I'm not sure where you're saying "back wire" and where you're getting "little spurts" from but it sounds by your description that your file issue may be upstream of the ip.

If you have the fuel inlet line disconnected where it enters the ip and its only tiny spurts with the lift pump on, you might have a delivery problem. Could be anything from a clogged tank sock/filter to a bad lift pump.

If you do have a delivery problem, it may have allowed air into the ip and lines which is giving you a no start condition.

If this is the case, you need to find the delivery problem and then bleed the lines up to the injectors. This could take a fair bit of time depending on how much air has entered the system.

If they're not seized, I'd pull out the glow plugs to make it easier to crank the engine while priming. This will make lift easier on your batteries and starter.


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Last edited by great white; 03-09-2012 at 04:30 AM.
  #39  
Old 03-09-2012, 06:49 AM
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How do you prime the engine the best way and is this inlet filter in the back of the pump where I can't get to it
 
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by EvanBoothe
How do you prime the engine the best way and is this inlet filter in the back of the pump where I can't get to it
Find out why you don't have a good flow of fuel to the IP first.

Then, pull out the glow plugs if you can to make it easier to crank the engine. Then crack the lines at the injectors. Then crank the engine until you get decent spurts at the injector nuts you just loosened.

If it all works out, the truck should start. It will run like crap (missing, rough running) for a 30 secs or so while it purges what is left of the air in the lines between the IP and injectors.

But you need to make sure you can get good feed to the IP first.

That means tank sock, lift pump or filter.....but it could also be something weird like a rusted hard line with a pin hole allowing air to break the prime.....
 


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