Chevy/GMC 6.2L and 6.5L Discussion of Chevy and GMC Trucks with 6.2L and 6.5L Diesel Engines

1999 suburban 6.5

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  #11  
Old 01-26-2012, 09:30 PM
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i would make sure you don't have air bubble in the coolant system buy bleeding system there a screw right on to cross over open it up in till coolant comes and no air bubbles
 
  #12  
Old 01-27-2012, 09:35 PM
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crank sensor and water temp sensor and bleeding air out again the truck would hardly start. once it started idle is fine but engine bog and all over the place when pushing on the pedal. Starting to believe the inj. pump is bad, verified lp is pumping good and no air there, any thoughts would be appreciated. One question has anyone ever had issue with pedal since it electronically controls throttle?

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that is brand new crank sensor and coolant temp sensor i put on today and no change and barely would start after new parts. Parts were bought from napa and were said to be oem.
 

Last edited by clyoung12; 01-27-2012 at 09:35 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #13  
Old 01-27-2012, 09:40 PM
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99% of the time if throttle pedal is bad the throttle light will turn on

Are you still getting codes ? if you are i wouldn't say IP yet cause then are not for the IP
 
  #14  
Old 01-27-2012, 09:42 PM
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Try disconnecting your ECT sensor and see if it improves.

If it does, replace ect sensor....
 
  #15  
Old 01-27-2012, 10:04 PM
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service light is still on but dont have service tool till i go to parts store. checked waste gate and vaccum to it and verified all working ok

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what exactly is the ect I dont know all of these terms but am learning thanks
 

Last edited by clyoung12; 01-27-2012 at 10:04 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #16  
Old 01-27-2012, 10:18 PM
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Default ECT

ECT also know as CTS This sit right on the cross over for the T-Stat housing. T-Stat sit on left side motor and ECT is on the right side
 
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  #17  
Old 01-28-2012, 05:32 AM
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True enough, I get carried away with acronyms sometimes.

Engine coolant temperature sensor is what I was after.

If it's bad it can mess up the timing/fueling.

What you're doing by disconnecting it is forcing the PCM to go to a default look up table for the values.

If the engine runs better, its sending erroneous data to the PCM and it's selecting the wrong table for engine temperature.

Why not just leave it off?

The PCM needs the temp data to know what table to use when cold, hot etc. The default table won't run properly in all conditions.

Try it. Its a quick, easy and cheap (ie: free) check.

If it works you've found your problem. If it doesn't, you're not out any cash..,,,
 

Last edited by great white; 01-28-2012 at 05:42 AM.
  #18  
Old 01-28-2012, 05:47 AM
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Edit: Just read above that the coolant sensor has already been replaced. Disregard all.

 
  #19  
Old 01-30-2012, 10:00 AM
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The ect appears to be same as coolant s sensor which I changed with new one.l checked resistance on both and seem to be ok could heat up and see resistance change.also no air at this location when putting new part in.the truck now does not want to start.

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Some how I just got the rest of your message, sorry.i keep saying same things over.
 

Last edited by clyoung12; 01-30-2012 at 10:00 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #20  
Old 01-31-2012, 01:53 PM
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talked to diesel care in tenn. and was told to check if inj pump is working by opening line at injector. I am getting no fuel at all, could this be caused by an electronic issue.
 


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