1999 suburban 6.5
#11
#12
crank sensor and water temp sensor and bleeding air out again the truck would hardly start. once it started idle is fine but engine bog and all over the place when pushing on the pedal. Starting to believe the inj. pump is bad, verified lp is pumping good and no air there, any thoughts would be appreciated. One question has anyone ever had issue with pedal since it electronically controls throttle?
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
that is brand new crank sensor and coolant temp sensor i put on today and no change and barely would start after new parts. Parts were bought from napa and were said to be oem.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
that is brand new crank sensor and coolant temp sensor i put on today and no change and barely would start after new parts. Parts were bought from napa and were said to be oem.
Last edited by clyoung12; 01-27-2012 at 09:35 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#13
#15
service light is still on but dont have service tool till i go to parts store. checked waste gate and vaccum to it and verified all working ok
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
what exactly is the ect I dont know all of these terms but am learning thanks
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
what exactly is the ect I dont know all of these terms but am learning thanks
Last edited by clyoung12; 01-27-2012 at 10:04 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#17
True enough, I get carried away with acronyms sometimes.
Engine coolant temperature sensor is what I was after.
If it's bad it can mess up the timing/fueling.
What you're doing by disconnecting it is forcing the PCM to go to a default look up table for the values.
If the engine runs better, its sending erroneous data to the PCM and it's selecting the wrong table for engine temperature.
Why not just leave it off?
The PCM needs the temp data to know what table to use when cold, hot etc. The default table won't run properly in all conditions.
Try it. Its a quick, easy and cheap (ie: free) check.
If it works you've found your problem. If it doesn't, you're not out any cash..,,,
Engine coolant temperature sensor is what I was after.
If it's bad it can mess up the timing/fueling.
What you're doing by disconnecting it is forcing the PCM to go to a default look up table for the values.
If the engine runs better, its sending erroneous data to the PCM and it's selecting the wrong table for engine temperature.
Why not just leave it off?
The PCM needs the temp data to know what table to use when cold, hot etc. The default table won't run properly in all conditions.
Try it. Its a quick, easy and cheap (ie: free) check.
If it works you've found your problem. If it doesn't, you're not out any cash..,,,
Last edited by great white; 01-28-2012 at 05:42 AM.
#19
The ect appears to be same as coolant s sensor which I changed with new one.l checked resistance on both and seem to be ok could heat up and see resistance change.also no air at this location when putting new part in.the truck now does not want to start.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Some how I just got the rest of your message, sorry.i keep saying same things over.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Some how I just got the rest of your message, sorry.i keep saying same things over.
Last edited by clyoung12; 01-30-2012 at 10:00 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#20