my oil cooler lines are leaking on my 6.5 and im wondering if this engine needs an oil cooler or if i can just plug it

 

I would not block them off and would go with after market ones or do what i did i got this from other 6.5er

How to reuse your Stock Oil cool with AN Lines, The Stock oil cooler in your 6.5 Is a very well built Cooler and it is made By Long Manufacturing, But comes with those push in Oil lines that are prone to leaking or letting go alltogether, By screwing the Old fittings out of the cooler and Using -12 An Union fittings in there place you can hook your Braded line right up to your existing cooler, One thing to note If you have spun a Bearing or anyother kind of major failure DO NOT REUSE YOUR OIL COOLER! Throw it away, That being said I like -10 lines so I use a -12 X -10 male to Male Union Reducer it is a Aeroquip fitting Part Number FCM2762 about 10 bucks each you will need 2 When taking out the old fittings or Installing the new always use a 1 1/4 inch wrench to hold the Cooler fitting so you wont damage the Cooler, I use a little Teflon Pipe Dop on tthe Threaded part of the -12 side you thread into the cooler tighten it down pretty good and it will never leak








this is for my Dually but im sure they are all the same except for Vans, You will Need 2 either 1/2" ip x -10 90 degree fittings or 3/8" x 90 Degree fittings depending on the outlet/inlets on your block, The measurement for lines I came up with was 52" and 55" as the fittings are staggard on the block, a couple #12 Adel clamps and about 3' of heat sleeve to go over the lines where they pass under the exhaust manifold, you should put 45 degree fittings on the cooler end of the lines and straight fittings on the engine end, get some stout Zip Ties and use them as seperators along the way

 

i second that, i got the lubrication specialist kit and that was really nice, but don't plug it. needs cooling

 

this is for my Dually but im sure they are all the same except for Vans, You will Need 2 either 1/2" ip x -10 90 degree fittings or 3/8" x 90 Degree fittings depending on the outlet/inlets on your block, The measurement for lines I came up with was 52" and 55" as the fittings are staggard on the block, a couple #12 Adel clamps and about 3' of heat sleeve to go over the lines where they pass under the exhaust manifold, you should put 45 degree fittings on the cooler end of the lines and straight fittings on the engine end, get some stout Zip Ties and use them as seperators along the way[/QUOTE]

How did you route your hoses to get those measurements? I am able to make the hoses where I work but it's up north. I want to make them and bring them home and install

 

Mine just started leaking noticeably. Pulled off the brush guard to get a look only to find that the oil cooler lines had worn a hole in the bottom...right where they were making contact with the brush guard.

Been shopping for oil cooler lines, but research found that mid 1997 they switched to a different oil line set up. The one I have is 1/2" lines. Don't really want to pay over two-hundred dollars for a couple oil lines

Really interested in the custom setup you guys are talking about, but where the lines go into the block is where I have questions. Do I need to remove the oil filter adapter, or just the oil filter? What about the connectors for the block? Any idea what I should order?

 

Had some time this week to work on the leaking oil cooler lines. Ordered the wrong factory ones. Apparently mid-1997 production year they changed to a bigger setup.

I ordered the big ones (~27mm), but mine has the smaller 19mm connecting nut lines. The lines on mine are 0.5 in, whereas the second design are easily 5/8".

Really was tempted to order the bigger cooler and upgrade while I got all this stuff apart. But the engine block ports are also different for the bigger lines.

At this point I might as well go for a custom/factory job, mixing and matching.

 

Ended up putting the cheap Dorman oil cooler lines on. Bought new block connectors too. I needed the truck for work otherwise I would have waited for the OEM oil cooler lines. The dealership wanted 2x the cost of online for the OEM's. It would have been next week before I could get the online ones.

If I had it to do over again I would have measured the connecting nuts and ordered the OEM lines and block connectors online. Oh well, you live and learn.

If there was a brick and mortar place where I could put together the custom line setup like Crazy posted then I would have done that. But the thread sizes, AN versus NPT, 10 AN versus 8 AN, and the fact mine had the smaller cooler, all added up to a couple weeks of downtime to get the right custom parts to do it.

If I was rolling in money and time, then I would have ordered the second design OEM cooler, big lines, and connectors. Wow there is a big difference in the first vs second design. The second one is obviously better in every aspect.

 

FWIW. If all it is is weaping hoses.. For less than $20.00, you can repair the existing lines using a dremel tool w/ cutoff wheel by carefully cutting off the crimp to remove the hose without damaging the hardline.
Clean the hard line(s) completely with carb cleaner or equiv, all surfaces must be spotless clean when new high pressure hose and HD clamp is installed. Double clamp each hose end is good insurance..

This same procedure can be used to repair the trans cooler lines, oil cooler lines, and PS cooler lines also..

 

Jesus, where were you last week???

I could have done that fix way easier.

 

cant be everywhere..