Havn't yet introduced myself. will get around to it but of course am in search of info. Short story: Got very decent Chevy 2500 HD 6.5. 599 block and all that good stuff; 130,000 on the odo--very good shape-even has a quasi/fresh 4L80E. Prev. owner says motor is shot. I believe him. As a matter of fact, the only reason I buy the truck is to put MY 200 HP 440 ft./lbs. GASOLINE Engine in this beast, and go down the road. Later, removing everything off of the front of the truck (done this once or twice (with gasoline, praised be the Diesel Gods)) I am just about to destroy something to get it out of my way, so I decide to first pull the pan and see the "damage". I LOVED getting the FRYING!!!!$%# pan off but low and behold, no more harm that a sheared Flex-plate. Yep, bolts intact sheared FLEX-PLATE!!! I don't need a physicist to tell me that there is some major imbalance going on BUT, i have never had one of these trucks and have actually been one of the guys to parrot what they heard-engine's garbage, Detroit's suck, bla, bla, bla. I have since done a smidge of reading and I want this truck to stay diesel now and I want the truck. I am ashamed to have called myself a GM man and not have known the gem of an engine that is in this Chevy. Flex-plate is going on this next week (5/16-17) I heard the thing run and my partner says all the noise was coming from beneath close to tranny.(that was what he said at the time) I think there was THAT noise AND A KNOCKING. From what I have read, wont too much diesel in a cylinder still mostly detonate, sounding like a knock? I think the injectors are the originals. The truck, before it came my way, experienced very hard starts with any kind of warmth to the engine whatsoever. That is to say it would start OK when cold, although best if you waited on the light for a good while and the light never would go out until you started it. The best way was: turn key forward, wait while light would come on, wait about 20 to 30 seconds, turn the key and she would fire pretty easy. HELL to start without assistance after that unless you let her cool off completely. I say assistance because previous owner, now with the nickname of Einstein (believe it) poured capfulls of gasoline in it to get it started throughout the day once she was warm. The only possible saving grace is that he only had the truck for 8 days before it started making all of this racket. Oh yeah, I forgot to say that another Buddy, (none of us certified; maybe crazy, but not certified mechs) said HE thought it was a noise associated with the turbo. I know I will always have my original option of putting my TBI VORTEC in this truck(tbi being the only way to go(GM BUILT this truck that way too!))But it would be nice to read some of you more experienced guys' prognosis(es).Glad to be here and I am prepared to relocate the IP and purchase a "new" one. I am prepared to get new injectors. Not prepared to spring for a turbo but would drive it without one for the time-being and even like it.

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Did not mean to get anyone upset when I said that TBI Motor replacement is the only way to go-I meant that TBI is the only option I have available if this diesel motor is bad. I hope that it is not bad, and I really want to keep it diesel but, financial restraints say I gotta put the gas engine in if the diesel is bad. I do have a diesel car (jetta) and it is the best car I have ever owned. I just really want some input, or maybe a diagnosis for the warm starting problem that I mentioned and also the question of the imbalance that caused the flex-plate to completely shear. The shop I got the plate from said, when I asked him what could have caused it, he said that it is an inherant problem and all I gotta do is keep replacing flywheels as needed. It is hard for me to believe that; I have a 4L80E in my other truck and I make it cry sometimes--NEVER had a problem with the flex-plate on that vehicle and now this guy tells me replace-like brakes? Don't think so---Anyone??? Oh, and too there was a knock (i thought) the question being-if injectors bad (leaking) can that cause a knock, AND imbalance, due to more fuel having to ignite? Thanks guys-I really do like diesels-just never been fortunate enough to own one that wasn't big and green (or red)

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You guys were wise to wait. Don't hate me - I needed this break, fellas - That motor is FINE. But the rest of the truck, I swear it, it looks like it could have been under water-for a WHILE. No way that this truck could look like this after one measly flood. Two or three at least and then it would have had to been at the bottom of a lake of leaves. Looks like salt water damage. At least a week. Its undercarriage skin (protection) is sliding off. The turbo may or may not work-Do I need to care? Will it run without it for now? What do I need to take off? I have Haynes for the other truck but it doesn't cover the diesels.

 

Welcome to the bombers. I am having a little trouble following everything you are saying.

The truck knocks and starts hard but the flex plate is sheared off. The flex plate would cause a knock and an imbalance. Hard start could still be a flex plate if it is slipping around the crank. I would change the flex plate before I worried about anything else.

You will have to buy the diesel book.

 

Sorry for the tough read. Got the truck running!! The knock was from the oil pan that some one had dented in pretty good. The banging was from the flex-plate. I cannot believe my good luck-was due though, i think, having been given a truck by my dad for free---$6,000.00 later was also a good truck! Headed to inspection station!

 

Pour cool water on Ijection pump when it don't want to start warm. I can't tell you why but it works. I'm sure some of the other guys here can explain the cause. But, the cool water works!!!

 

cold water works on 94 and newer because it cools down the pmd. If its hard starting there is only a few things it can be. No fuel because it has a air leak, low compression, bad glow plugs, or a bad injection pump.