Chevy/GMC 6.2L and 6.5L Discussion of Chevy and GMC Trucks with 6.2L and 6.5L Diesel Engines

could use a little advice, po238?

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  #11  
Old 03-11-2011, 12:38 PM
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try spraying WD40 in it see if start to work it just ball in there start to stick over time or try tapping on it see if start working

25hg vac is good
 
  #12  
Old 03-11-2011, 01:41 PM
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Default HAHA LINES WERE CROSSED!!!

before i drove a half hour for another solenoid i had the brilliant idea of switching the lines on the solenoid and seeing if it worked and sure enough it did everything works great now the actuator rod was sucked in and is not moveable when the engine is running haha isnt that how it is though half the time when you get a vehicle you just have to fix what the previous owner tampered with
 
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Old 03-11-2011, 02:06 PM
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the vacuum line from the pump goes to the solenoid port closes to front of the motor and the one back goes waste gate
 
  #14  
Old 03-11-2011, 02:36 PM
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Default yep thats how i have it just one more question for now

NOOOOOOO i messed up the title of that post. i just rechecked thats not how i have it, maybe our solenoids are located in different places mines by itself on the rear of driver side valve cover. but yea in my case the port closest to front of engine goes to actuator

so whats up with this whole harmonic balancer deal. am i supposed to change it before it causes my crank to crack??. havent really researched about it yet suppose i should...
 

Last edited by dirtrider5001; 03-11-2011 at 02:40 PM.
  #15  
Old 03-11-2011, 03:04 PM
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yes that where solenoid is mounted drivers valve cover

you have hookup backwares

On the Harmonic is know for problems and the Harmonic outer pulley also take good look at the rubber is know fail ob both
 
  #16  
Old 03-11-2011, 04:03 PM
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Default yea i think ur right

crossing the lines did open the wastegate but thats not how the lines go thanks for putting some sense into my head , so either its the solenoid being bad maybe or i read somewhere possible map sensor connection... ahhh thought i figured it out ill have to try that wd40 trick and tapping but i need to pick some up from the store along with some diff fluid for a front dif change
 

Last edited by dirtrider5001; 03-11-2011 at 04:05 PM.
  #17  
Old 03-11-2011, 04:34 PM
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99% time it the wastegate solenoid that goes bad like said try tapping on it or spray WD40 in it you may get it working it also should spray it every oil change
 
  #18  
Old 03-11-2011, 07:28 PM
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Default no such luck

i wd 40'd the **** out of it and tapped on it like a mother ffer and still no luck, o well sucks to be me till monday..... anyone know how to test the electrical connector to the solenoid just so that i can be sure?
 
  #19  
Old 03-11-2011, 09:25 PM
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have electrical problem forwastegate solenoid is not likey you just going need new one what happen there magnet and ball in there some time ball get rusted up and won't move and other is magnet just go bad
 
  #20  
Old 03-15-2011, 05:12 PM
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Default Update Update! not good

well you dont know till you know right? and now i know that the problem isnt the vacuum solenoid cuz i just put a brand new one on there. The actuator rod is supposed to get sucked in when the truck is at idle correct?(i already sucked on the actuator and it pulled itself in didnt sound like it was leaking theres just no vaccumm coming on coming out the other end of the solenoid. and again its not the hose to actuator i already checked that. anyways im thinking maybe they crossed the wires when they put a new connector to the boost sensor on the intake but i dunno which wires go where? see the wires on the new connector are colored different. Im also thinking that this or whatever is causes my vac solenoid not to engage could also have something to do with the previous owners random stalling problem... Now i just have to figure out the problem....

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the odd thing is that the vac solenoid seems to be buzzing like you said it should, the old solenoid buzzes too even more

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im out there now looking over the entire wiring harness for a corroded wire

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now im checking to see if this new sensor (that was already on the truck) is the correct boost sensor and not just a new map sensor from a car

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im really starting to think bad pcm, when i put a test light to the vac sensor wires i get power but no ground, im not getting ground from the pcm, so why is pcm not sending signal? maybe bad pcm or??

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THey had a map sensor in place of the boost sensor!!! I cant believe they did that. I bought this truck from a small shop!!!! ol !! i paid 100 for a cpu and when i was at the junkyard i asked if i might be able to get the map sensor and i got it i pulled it off the exact motor myself. when i went to put it onto mine it wouldnt go into the connector since remember i said they changed the connector. The origional map sensor on mine was brand new so i ASSUMED it was the right one. Well now i have a cuple hours of work to do taping up my wiring harness ect. The actuator works great i have the hoses on correct with the restricer outlet going to the pump every thing is great. And of course im using the origional cpu. i cant wait to feel the power of this beast a BIG thanks for everyone that put in there input
 

Last edited by dirtrider5001; 03-15-2011 at 05:14 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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