no you can not mill it out

i have to leave right now but when i get back in 1/2hr send you write up and pics on what to do yours

 

Also if i remember correctly i think someone said if I put a tm on and get rid of the egr I need to cap off the solinoid? is that correct and where is it so I can cap it off.

 

here a pic of the solinoids


All you to do just leave them wires plug in and on the driverside valve cover

 

Don't really have pictures of the complete EGR delete as there are a couple ways to do it...

Items Needed:

* 3/8" metric socket set
* Computer Reflash (depending on what you do - read further)
* An "F" Intake (Method 1)
* Dremel (optional)
* Frost Plug (Method 2)

Items you can Delete:

* Vacuum Pump (If TurboMaster installed)
* EGR (If using F intake)
* All Vacuum Lines
* EGR Solenoids (read further for more information about this)


Removing Vacuum Pump

* Remove Serpentine Belt
* Unbolt AC Compressor (96+ not needed)
o On 96+ Just unbolt the Vacuum pump through the holes in the pulley
* Unbolt AC Compressor Bracket and unbolt the Vacuum pump from it (3 bolts)
* Remove the vacuum lines from the vacuum pump to the solenoids, and to the wastegate/EGR.
* Install the AC Compressor and the Bracket

Solenoids and Sensors

* On 94-95 Models
o If you have a reflash that has EGR Delete function on it, you can remove all three solenoids completely.
o If you have stock programming or an aftermarket reflash that does not have an EGR Delete function you may have to keep the sensors plugged into the computer. You can try to unplug them but it may throw an Check Engine light.
* On 96+ Models
o "I think" you have to have a reflashed computer or else it will throw codes/check engine light. I'm not 100% sure on this but you can try removing the vacuum lines from the solenoids and see what happens.
o If the truck throws a check engine light it shouldn't hurt the trucks performance but you will have the annoying orange light up all the time.
* Those trucks that are equipped with a BARO sensor, you must keep this sensor plugged into the computer or you will get a check engine light.
* You can also try to get a donor computer from an F truck, but you have to make sure the codes on the eprom (on 94-95) and all the specs are the same on the donor ecm as your truck.

Serpentine Belt Sizes

* 1994-1995: 101" - 101.5"
* 1996+: 99.5"
* Basic rule of thumb is ~1" shorter then stock belt size when removing vacuum pump.

Method 1: (Using an F Intake)

* Remove the top 6 bolts, unclamp the boot and unbolt the bar that connects to the turbo. Then remove the upper intake
* Remove all the bolts from the lower intake. Keep note on how the injector line clamps are placed and where the longer and shorter bolts are placed. Then remove the old intake.
* Remove the old gasket and replace with a new gasket. No sealer should be required for this, just the gasket.
* Put the new intake in place, making sure not to mess up the gasket you just installed. It "may" take some maneuvering to get it in the right place.
* Bolt down the lower intake to the correct specs and correct sequence. See attached picture for information. Upper Intake Torque Spec: 31 ft lbs.
o Make sure you install all bolt lengths in the correct holes and make sure you install the injector line clamps.
* Install upper intake (and new gasket) and connect/clamp the boot and bolt down the bar that connects to the turbo. Install all 6 bolts on the upper intake, torqued to 17 ft lbs.

Method 2: (Blocking off EGR)

* Remove the top 6 bolts, unclamp the boot and unbolt the bar that connects to the turbo. Then remove the upper intake.
* Install the frost plug in the middle hole where the EGR sits on the lower intake.

* This would be a good time to de-web the upper intake out for better flow.

* Install upper intake (and new gasket) and connect/clamp the boot and bolt down the bar that connects to the turbo. Install all 6 bolts on the upper intake, torqued to 17 ft lbs.
o You will have to keep the EGR on unless you modifiy it
o To modify it, you have to weld a piece of aluminum to cover the hole. You may be able to just be able to use a place with the egr gasket, but i'm not sure

Other Information

* If removing vacuum pump, make sure all devices that use the vacuum pump are converted. This can include the following:
o EGR System
o WasteGate
o HVAC Controls (normally only on vans).
* I personally like HeathDiesels reflash with the EGR Delete, but KennedyDiesels reflash is just as good (from what I hear)
* Always take your time and do stuff right the first time. No need to do things twice.
* Here is information on an EGR Dummy Circuit

I personally prefer METHOD 1 over the other method.

The images below describe the following (in order):

* Lower Intake Bolt sizes and info
* Intake Torque Sequence
* F and S Intake Comparison
* Before Pics of my truck (yes.. I have/had leaks )
* After Intake replacement (Method 1)

 

Hope all this help you


this is size i ues on my buddy and it but have ppl tell it fall right thru so you may want take intake with you fit freeze plug

45mm freeze plug NAPA P/N 2193175


also found this

http://www.dieselservices.com/html/g...g_6265_p20.cfm

 

Man I appriciate all your help, I couldn't do all this without your info. I owe you big time. Couple more questions. Do I need to take the lower part of the intake off to plug the hole or can I machine a plug to put in there and then do the top cover, what do I need to smooth out the a dremel on the upper intake. Where I work I use a lathe, mill and water jet so I can make just about anything when I know what i need to do. Just trying to get all this on paper and my steps so I do it right the first time.

 

i guess you can the i be worry about paces of metal fulling in the intake and getting down in the valves

if it was me take it off that way when you are at replace you fuel lines from fuel filter housing to the injector pump and T-valve and you be able check all the wires under intake also got remember these old and lot heat under there

 

Crazy, did you use the factory spring from the inside when you cut it apart or did you buy a new one?

 

no spring to weak

here site show how make one give you the part #er for spring from ace hardware

Make Your Own Mechanical Wastegate Controller

 

Now forgive me if I am wrong, but even though our trucks dont have throttle plates, you could still install a blow off valve and set it at 12psi and just wire the wastegate shut couldnt you?