Alright here's what I got. I got a code 32 and a 33 and I checked the vacuum solenoids and they checked out but I started the truck and stuck my finger over one, well all of them and it didn't really seem to have much vacuum. How much should the pump make at idle? Do I really need the vacuum pump? I have a manual boost controller. What else does the pump run?

 

You will need a vacuum gauge to properly test the pump itself. You will want to hook the gauge up as close to the pump as possible. You want to see at least 20”+ Hg of vacuum at Idle.

 

ok so say i make less than 20"Hg of vacuum at idle, replace pump would be the obvious choice. my ? is can i run the truck without the pump, from what i saw, the only thing the pump runs is the egr and boost actuator. can i tie the lines into the intake since the turbo makes constant vacuum, i had the air filter off the other day doing some tests and the turbo makes quite a bit at idle. have you heard of anyone doing this?

 

First all what is your reading


no you can not just tie in to the intake

for turbo you make TM or buy on and you have do some work for EGR

which would be some good mods to do

if you are think about doing way with pump and post some stuff how make TM and do away with EGR

 

what does TM mean? sorry but i must have missed it. and when i do away with the egr is the computer going to throw a code?

 

TM stand turbo master

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what was the vacuum pump reading

 

10"Hg i got it figured out finally

 

i also should told you spray so WD-40 in the wastgate solenoids some time they will stick

now if want do away with the EGR read this post# 2



https://www.dieselbombers.com/chevy-gmc-6-2l-6-5l/60839-egr.html#post636560[/URL]

 

i tried the wd40 but i think the problem is the vacuum pump, i read the post but i think i may just leave it. its not worth it to me to to take the intake off and all that stuff just to delete the egr. if i ever get the computer reflashed i may just get one without the egr. thanks though