Chevy/GMC 6.2L and 6.5L Discussion of Chevy and GMC Trucks with 6.2L and 6.5L Diesel Engines

93 6.5 and 95 6.5 differences?

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Old 05-04-2009, 10:47 PM
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Default 93 6.5 and 95 6.5 differences?

I currently have a 93 chevy k2500 with a 6.5 turbo that died on me, I have found a parts motor that is a 95 6.5 turbo to use as a parts motor to rebuild mine. My question is which parts from the 95 donor motor will I want, or should I pull my pump and start building the 95 motor? Both have turbo and the 95 was in a 2 wheel drive truck. My 93 truck is all mechanical pump turned up 1/8th turn. It got old and tired
 
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Old 05-05-2009, 05:59 PM
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do you know what the condition of the 95 engine is. if its good than just take off the pump , turbo and intake off the 93 and put it on the 95. check the turbo to see if it has any play in the compressor or any loose parts. this could mean a bad turbo
 
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Old 05-06-2009, 12:23 AM
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95 turbo is better
obviously you know you should use the 93 pump. I believe the oil spray block wasn't till 97 so I think your not looking at one stronger and one weaker block.

I can't think of any other differences off the top of my head
 
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Old 05-06-2009, 01:42 AM
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Don't know the condition of the motor, the guy bought the truck and put a cummins motor in it. I'm hoping the turbo is in good condition, mine was pretty much wore out and needed a rebuild anyway I got this truck in bad shape and have slowly been replacing it with new parts. It had started leaking oil into the compressor intake side and I was trying to wait till my long run working season was over before I started building everything. My truck has a new transmission and new front axles, brakes, alternator, radiator, fuel injection pump, lift pump, starter, flywheel, heads and stereo and it still is cheaper to run than my other truck. I thought the 95 turbo was supposed to be better than mine, so if it has no play it goes in the truck. Gonna have to put it on my engine stand and try to fire it when I get it home this week to see what it does first. If it runs ok I'm gonna pull my pump and intake and run it till I finish my job the end of June then pull it down and rebuild it this fall.

Till then I'm driving my old backup truck, a 1976 chevy 4x4 with a built 400 small block that uses twice the fuel pulling a 3,000lb trailer hauling 8,000 to 11,000lbs at a time on it 2 or 3 times a week.

Anything else I should be looking for while I'm at it? This 6.5 is a learning curve for me finding the parts, thanks for your input so far. I've always worked on Caterpillar, Cummins and International industrial trucks and equipment.
 
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Last edited by Roadthril1; 05-06-2009 at 02:17 AM. Reason: mispell
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Old 05-06-2009, 02:35 AM
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you could compression test that 95 without running it. You could drop that 95 in then build your 93 on the bench.
 
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Old 05-06-2009, 07:32 AM
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Need to know if S or F VIN as that may dictate some changes, no vac or electronics to run the EGR stuff, also no vac to run the WG so if using a new turbo you'll have to add in a mech wg control.

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Another possiblity is a new turbo that is non wastegated that saves mpg and better driveability, and rather than sound like a salesman search around for something called ATeam Turbo on one of the more populated 6.5 sites. Derived from a Mitsubishi TD07 turbo it's a nice affordable compliment to the 6.5, more power and mpg than the GM turbo offerings. I've got about 15K on mine since installing it.
 

Last edited by Turbine Doc; 05-06-2009 at 07:32 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 05-12-2009, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbine Doc
search around for something called ATeam Turbo on one of the more populated 6.5 sites. Derived from a Mitsubishi TD07 turbo it's a nice affordable compliment to the 6.5, more power and mpg than the GM turbo offerings. I've got about 15K on mine since installing it.
this is the best turbo for a 6.5 yet
 
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Old 05-13-2009, 12:26 PM
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95 engine update

Well the dude was a flake and sold it to someone he swears he thought was me the night before (yeah right) so I drove 140 miles each way for "nothing" early on a saturday morning!

Guess I'm stuck with just building my 93 engine this summer. I'm all ears on what I need to do to this motor to get the best power and mileage I can out of it though. I have another set of hardened heads ready for it, gonna get a different turbo. Is there a better camshaft setup that gives good power and mileage overall?
My engine has no smog and no vacuum on it, and the sky is the limit as far as emissions cause I live out in the middle of nowhere and they don't have emissions here.

Also I have three 6.2L blocks, one orange and 2 black blocks I've heard the orange blocks have better flowing heads because the valves are bigger. Both black blocks have a broken crank.
 

Last edited by Roadthril1; 05-13-2009 at 12:29 PM.
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Old 05-14-2009, 07:24 PM
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Need to know the vintage of the black blocks, last years 6.2 was produced the block was shared for oth 6.2/6.5, bored bigger for the 6.5, a good build is 6.2 bottom with 6.5 heads, orange block is early 6.2 strongest blocks, but probably has 2 piece rear main and vs 1 piece, not a big deal just something to be aware of, early 6.2 heads not preferable because they have coarse thread injectors and those are getting harder to come by.

What are your goals, or better yet how deep is your wallet, it is a 93 afterall, how much $$$ you want to put in it.

I'm good for 18K# of towing power with mine with just bolt on stuff, I have another engine I hope to get more power out of I went into the block splays, scat crank, phazer gear, h/o heads, fluid damper, balanced and some other stuff I won't share, gotta have an edge can't share all my tricks. cams with forced induction a turbo provides ain't gonna do much, plus only so much lift you can put on the valve train before you bend something, cams aren't on the to do list for the 6.5. Buddy of mine that holds the 6.5 speed record 153 mph at Bonneville has stock cam in his.
 
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Old 05-14-2009, 11:20 PM
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I'm just looking to build a bulletproof workhorse truck that can still pull a heavy load a few times a week, or take a run across the country at a moments notice like my other trucks.
It has 285/ 75R16 BFG/ AT tires (yeah I know short but its a working truck) and heavy duty aluminum wheels, and my trucks all get used for whatever they are needed for.

The truck itself is in nice shape, and has one small dent on it, paints all good drives nice, tranny has very few miles on it since rebuilt and I have the whole running gear minus the motor as a backup from a 3/4 ton 4x4 93 suburban so I plan on keeping it for awhile. Everything I own has desert pinstriping. Nothing I own is show and go, but I will run with a shiny truck or at least try to make you look bad. I may even have a 5,000lb motor on a trailer behind me doing it.

I scrap metals out for a living and can find or trade for just about anything you can think of while doing, it so the pocketbook doesn't have to be too big, just have to get the want to do it. Hell I'm putting a 4.3L engine in my 85 Toyota 4x4 xtracab real soon.

I was pulling a 24K to 28K gvw load on a 3 axle trailer up and over 5% to 7% grades 3 times a week 165miles each way with lots of big hills in between even while it was worn out. Following a turned up cummins powered chevy 1 ton dually with an allison tranny every time . I followed through the mountains and led on the flats (taller gears).

Wow this got long!! I'm just looking to build a strong runner that won't blow itself apart while I'm 1,500 miles from home, or just up in the mountains scrapping something out and trying to get it off the mountain before nightfall.
 



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