6.2 K5 Swap
#11
#12
Replace: glow plugs and rear main seal. Get a lift pump blank kit and go w/ an electric fuel pump. Valve lash is a no go, cause they don't adjust. Have to remove the injector pump to do valve covers. I guess while you have the glow plugs out, squirt some hydraulic oil into the cylinders. It sounds wrong, but hyd. oil does a real good job of dissolving rust. Let it sit over night then come out the next morning and spin it over by hand. Check the flex plate for missing teeth, condition of freeze plugs-replace if necessary.
#13
alright i picked it up yesterday. i was able to turn it over pretty easily with a breaker bar but i couldn't figure out what cover to take off the injection pump so i haven't looked there yet. also what are the freeze plugs and can i get some more info on what type of lift pump i should get and where i should look for one?
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Last edited by jesse; 09-15-2008 at 11:23 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#14
The lid on the injector pump will have two sets of wires and a small hose going into it. There are 3 bolts that hold it in place. Be careful removing it, there is an o-ring type gasket. Freeze/soft plugs will probably be ok. Did the engine sit outside, or was it still bolted up in the outfit?
#15
the engine sat in the basement of a barn for 6 years but it seems pretty clean, there aren't any rats nests in the intake or anything like that. everything seems to be there but i guess i'll find out if there are some wires missing when i start to put it in. it even has an a/c pump my truck has an a/c system but no pump right now so maybe i'll get the a/c going again eventually.
i was able to break free all the glow plugs pretty easily today. i thought that would be a nightmare and i would be breaking them off in the block left and right but they all loosened up easily.
i'll probably take a look at the injection pump tomorow and start buying the parts for it. right now it looks like i need a fan blade, maybe a clutch, some hoses, fuel, oil and air filters, glow plugs, a starter, maybe an alternator, electric lift pump, radiator, and rear main seal.
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a few more questions
1. do i really need to run oil cooler lines?
2. how do i wire up the dual batteries? i'm assuming in parallel and what components should i use to do that. some kindo of bus or just splice the wires somehow? i'm kindof new to wiring
3. how do i wire up the glow plug solenoid?
4. where are the block identification numbers on one of these engines?
5. can i get some more info on what type of electric lift pump to run
thanks for all the help so far.
i was able to break free all the glow plugs pretty easily today. i thought that would be a nightmare and i would be breaking them off in the block left and right but they all loosened up easily.
i'll probably take a look at the injection pump tomorow and start buying the parts for it. right now it looks like i need a fan blade, maybe a clutch, some hoses, fuel, oil and air filters, glow plugs, a starter, maybe an alternator, electric lift pump, radiator, and rear main seal.
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a few more questions
1. do i really need to run oil cooler lines?
2. how do i wire up the dual batteries? i'm assuming in parallel and what components should i use to do that. some kindo of bus or just splice the wires somehow? i'm kindof new to wiring
3. how do i wire up the glow plug solenoid?
4. where are the block identification numbers on one of these engines?
5. can i get some more info on what type of electric lift pump to run
thanks for all the help so far.
Last edited by jesse; 09-15-2008 at 05:11 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#16
1: You don't have to. I believe they were there for towing
2: Each ground to the engine, preferably on the exhaust manifold bolts. The a cable from one + to the other with a second cable going to the starter
3: One of the blades is run w/ the key and the other needs a momentary switch
4: ID # is on the back of the block
5: I'll post a pic on how me and my dad re-plumbed the fuel lines w/ the pump. Yer going to have to buy a block off plate and remove the stock pump and rod
2: Each ground to the engine, preferably on the exhaust manifold bolts. The a cable from one + to the other with a second cable going to the starter
3: One of the blades is run w/ the key and the other needs a momentary switch
4: ID # is on the back of the block
5: I'll post a pic on how me and my dad re-plumbed the fuel lines w/ the pump. Yer going to have to buy a block off plate and remove the stock pump and rod
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jesse (09-15-2008)
#17
#18
a few more questions
1. do i really need to run oil cooler lines?
2. how do i wire up the dual batteries? i'm assuming in parallel and what components should i use to do that. some kindo of bus or just splice the wires somehow? i'm kindof new to wiring
3. how do i wire up the glow plug solenoid?
4. where are the block identification numbers on one of these engines?
5. can i get some more info on what type of electric lift pump to run
thanks for all the help so far.
1. do i really need to run oil cooler lines?
2. how do i wire up the dual batteries? i'm assuming in parallel and what components should i use to do that. some kindo of bus or just splice the wires somehow? i'm kindof new to wiring
3. how do i wire up the glow plug solenoid?
4. where are the block identification numbers on one of these engines?
5. can i get some more info on what type of electric lift pump to run
thanks for all the help so far.
2. Unless its military, you only need 12V, so wire them up to get 12V.(and yes, I know all about how most of the CUCV is 12V.)
3. I would put a manual (temporary, or spring loaded, so you cant accidently leave them on)switch hooked to a Glow plug relay. You can get them at Napa pretty cheap. Mine is hooked up to a powerstroke relay currently.
4. Dunno
5. Most of these engines have Manual Fuel pumps. They are terrible for bubbles. Any lift pump that puts out about 5 psi should do. You can bypass the manual fuel pump then. They also make blockoff plates should you decide to do that.
Have fun. They are great trucks.