6.5 died/ not starting
Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 322
Likes: 18
From: East north central Illinois
Just as well add the ground by the heater blower while your at it. LOL
That ground does have the potential for being a big help. That connection is known to have melt down problems. Especially if the blower is getting tired. The additional ground helps [prevent the connection from over heating.
It also helps ground the computer from the other direction. The other end ends up at the stud on the back of the intake. Then goes to the firewall - at least this is what I was told
That ground does have the potential for being a big help. That connection is known to have melt down problems. Especially if the blower is getting tired. The additional ground helps [prevent the connection from over heating.
It also helps ground the computer from the other direction. The other end ends up at the stud on the back of the intake. Then goes to the firewall - at least this is what I was told
It can't hurt.
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Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 115
Likes: 18
And the stalling continues. 
I just took a trip to the store and in a half mile I had 3 stalls. Instant re starts, without cranking , but it is still stalling.
Can the short wire harness from the big Fuel pump to the PMD connection be replaced? and who would have one ?
If it is in the ignition switch going south ?? is there a way to simply run a switched hot wire from the battery to a terminal somewhere so there is a constant live when it is switched on , effectively bypassing the ignition switch as the live power source ? {This was easy to do on the old gas vehicles before computers.}
I just took a trip to the store and in a half mile I had 3 stalls. Instant re starts, without cranking , but it is still stalling.Can the short wire harness from the big Fuel pump to the PMD connection be replaced? and who would have one ?
If it is in the ignition switch going south ?? is there a way to simply run a switched hot wire from the battery to a terminal somewhere so there is a constant live when it is switched on , effectively bypassing the ignition switch as the live power source ? {This was easy to do on the old gas vehicles before computers.}
Diesel Fan
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Petew, I have a used PMD with the remote as well as a second remote wiring harness brand new. Just pulled my DB4 pump out as well and have a second spare. Basically I have a bunch of parts after doing conversion to manual pumps on two 95s with the electronic pumps. Also might not be your pump might be the actual Throttle Peddle as its fly by wire. An they are known to cause stalling/dieing issues. Its why alot of us go manual. Have one of those known working as well. An no you can no hotwire the DB4 pump another reason I went to manual DB2 conversion and manual transmission (nv3500 or nv4500).
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Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 115
Likes: 18
Thanks MIBoondocker. Good things to think about.
Still thinking there must be a way to bypass the ignition switch for power to the truck. Now power goes to the switch, and back down the Colum to somewhere to energise the electrical system. A switched wire to that somewhere should act as an on/ off , just like the old hot wire to the coil did.
Still thinking there must be a way to bypass the ignition switch for power to the truck. Now power goes to the switch, and back down the Colum to somewhere to energise the electrical system. A switched wire to that somewhere should act as an on/ off , just like the old hot wire to the coil did.
Diesel Fan
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Yes you can bypass the ig switch but I really do not think that is your issue. Going back and reading the posts again I read about the codes being posted and what they are saying. From those codes I would say you have one of 3 issues 1)$20 ECM temp sensor bad 2)Shot PMD especially if its mounted on the engine still. $85-200+ 3)Injector Pump going bad $350-1200. Cause those codes are not usually thrown when its the peddle but then again they can be. Its issues like these why I went to manual just so much easier to diag and fix.
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Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 115
Likes: 18
Now I don't have any codes since fixing grounds and switching to a new PMD, and a new extension harness for the PMD. The PMD is mounted behind the left side battery.
I have no idea what the ECM temp sensor is or where it is. but for $20 I would change it in a flash.
I have no idea what the ECM temp sensor is or where it is. but for $20 I would change it in a flash.
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Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 115
Likes: 18
out to work on the truck, and it starts and dies, starts again and dies instantly, and the third time it refused to even fire.
Ok lets hope I am out of the woods. No ECM available local, so on to the next thing.
I decided to chop off the harness plugs and hard wire the PMD. Off came the intake plenum and what do I find but the 6 wire plug is steped down to a 4" long 4 wire plug, that disappears under the intake on the passenger side with 2 other wires disappearing under the intake on the driver side.
I cut each of the 4 wires behind the second set of plugs and soldered the PMD wires in place , then cut the 2 additional wires that run under the intake drivers side and soldered them to the corresponding PMD wires they belong with.
Hop in turn the key and away she goes. ran it for a bit and took a 20 mile test run, high speed, foot to the floor, slow speed, idle speed and not a hitch. Get back home and all is well.
When I got the plugs removed and in my hands I was able to pull out 1 wire stub by accident. The rest seem solid so with luck that 1 loose wire was the cause of all this grief.The next couple days will determine if it is fixed for real.
Ok lets hope I am out of the woods. No ECM available local, so on to the next thing.
I decided to chop off the harness plugs and hard wire the PMD. Off came the intake plenum and what do I find but the 6 wire plug is steped down to a 4" long 4 wire plug, that disappears under the intake on the passenger side with 2 other wires disappearing under the intake on the driver side.
I cut each of the 4 wires behind the second set of plugs and soldered the PMD wires in place , then cut the 2 additional wires that run under the intake drivers side and soldered them to the corresponding PMD wires they belong with.
Hop in turn the key and away she goes. ran it for a bit and took a 20 mile test run, high speed, foot to the floor, slow speed, idle speed and not a hitch. Get back home and all is well.
When I got the plugs removed and in my hands I was able to pull out 1 wire stub by accident. The rest seem solid so with luck that 1 loose wire was the cause of all this grief.The next couple days will determine if it is fixed for real.
