I have a 96 GMC K3500 Sierra LWB crew cab with a Knapheide utility bed on the rear. It is a dually. Traded for it about a year ago. Has the 6.5 & 5 speed with about 199K miles - I have put about 2-3K miles on it since I got it.. It is not my daily driver, however, I need it to be if it is needed if you know what I mean.

So down to business. About a few months ago I noticed when I would get home and try to shift into reverse it would not “drop” into reverse. I would have to let the clutch out and then re-clutch and try again and usually after one or two tries it would drop into reverse and back up just fine. Well that “behavior” started happening in the forward gears as well. When we had a cold snap (around 20 degrees for about 5 days) I was driving it and I noticed when trying to shift into 1st or 2nd it is like the gear shifter just hits a brick wall. Nothing. Does not drop into gear it just pushes back into your hand as you try to push it into gear. I would usually have 4th or 5th OK. So I discovered ( needed to get home) that if I let the clutch out at a standing stop in 4th gear and let it out enough where it just started to move the truck I could then put the clutch back in and it would shift into 1st. Off I went. I made it home with a few times of having to get creative in what gear I would launch in etc… Now with the warmer weather it behaves the same way so I do not think the cold had anything to do with it. The clutch lets off near the top of the pedal stroke if that means anything. I still shift with it on the floor – but I feel it engage as I get nearer the top of the pedal stroke.

I am not an expert in clutches. I am used to automatics – tearing then down and rebuilding or taking them in for a core swap etc… I did check the fluid and , while it is dirty, it is full. Also no leaks that I can see.

So I am thinking based on what I have read here that it needs a new clutch. I did not ask when I traded it how many miles were on the clutch. It did shift fine until these last few months. If the truck is off you can shift just fine into any gear you want. But when running not the case.

So I have a friend who knows about clutches and he is willing to help me with the project next week.

I have two questions please:

1. Does it sound like the clutch needs replacing?

2. When you replace the clutch what else should you replace to do the job right? ( such as slave cylinder, throw out bearing etc…)

I appreciate any help and please let me know what you think. I want to get it fixed right the first time.

~GOD BLESS~

john

 

If you decide to replace clutch go to a single mass fly wheel

 

Going to a single mass flywheel - would that involve buying the clutch kit and also the new flywheel? If so about how much extra are we talking? Does that also mean that you have to install a different clutch to accomidate the new flywheel?

Thank you!

~GOD BLESS~

john

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I was also thinking about the question I have as to what else should one replace when you are going into put in a new clutch. I appreciate any information anyone can provide.

Thank you!

~GOD BLESS~

john

 

I used a single mass flywheel from a 6.2 school bus $20 is what I give for it Maybe you can find one cheap enough might what to change the rear main seal while the trans is out regardless of condition and maybe new gear oil in the trans i would not bother replaceing the slave cylinder unless you are having issues this does not require removal of the trans.

 

On a 96 the slave cylinder is part of the release bearing retention/activation system and does require the trans be removed to replace it.
On rock aito there is a master,line and slave kit for $101.00 - AMS AUTOMOTIVE Part # PM0434
EG:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-5-GM-CHEVROLET-DIESEL-SINGLE-MASS-NEW-FLYWHEEL-/271436613401?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f32e20719&vxp=mtrhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/1996-2002-Chevrolet-GMC-1500-2500-3500-6-5-V8-Diesel-New-Clutch-Kit-/390567499321?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5aefa31639&vxp=mtr[color=grey][size=-2]

 

It sounds like you DO NEED the tranny out to replace the slave cylinder as it is part of the release bearing rentention/activation system... So I should look at replacing that as we'll have the tranny out.

What is the downside of staying with a dual mass flywheel?

I am asking because it may come down to how much money we have to use for the repairs and I would rather like to get a good clutch and replace the slave cylinder if I can afford it instead of going to the single mass flywheel.

I just do not understand what the advantage of the single mass flywheel is please.

Thank you all

~GOD BLESS~

john

 

No you don't have to remove the trans to do the slave cylinder look under the truck right in the starter area And the advantage to a single mass flywheel is there are no springs to explode or fly apart busting the bell housing and or the engine block So no advantage other than with a single mass flywheel when shutting the engine off it is recommended that you depress the clutch.

 

On a 96 like mine the slave is integral to the release bearing and you do have to remove the trans to change it-Mayhem it's not like previous years.
Look up part ACDELCO Part # 386433 on rock auto for a picture-might be worth while to buy a master cylinder,line and slave as a pre bled kit and install it all together-it's real tough to separate the line from the old slave.
The dual mass flywheel is a bonded a multipiece that fails-the advantage of the single mass is it' won't come apart.

 

Thanks for clearing the slave cylinder issue for me racer I did not realize they changed the design

 

Whether you change the flywheel or keep the original, my recommendation is, if it's in the bell housing replace it or resurface (original flywheel) it. It sux to get the clutch replaced and find out you have to pull the trans because the next weakest link failed (and it will fail). Murphy's 3rd law of transmissions.