I have a single mass flywheel on the way - should be here today. Hope to get in some hours tonight and tomorrow to get it all buttoned up by tomorrow evening.

Might have to keep the orginal master cylinder due to budget - I noticed that it has a metal line running from the master cylinder then it turns into a rubber line after about a foot - when looking at it from under the hood.

I had a friend who had a car that had a rubber line coming from the master cylinder and it had gotten old with age and would not let him shift into gear when the car was warmed up as the hose actually was colapsing on itself (keeping him from being abel to shift into gear untill it colled down and then he could shift).

So my question is should I replace the line to the master cylinder with an all metal one? Can the rubber fatigue and cause problems such as not being able to shift into gear?

Thank you for any information.

~GOD BLESS~

john

 

It has to have some flexibility in the line just to prevent being stressed and crack from the engine/trans torquing up with every shift-I would buy th prebled master/line/slave combo.

Changing out the line is a not a fun process-I have done it before and it sucks.

 

That makes sense that it needs to be flexible to handle the torque etc... I looked at it again and it is a type of braided line - not the rubber hose I said it was earilier. Guess I'll look into the master cylinder replacement with the new line.

But , in your opinion, would cause a sympton where you depress the clutch and when you try to shift into 1st gear it does not allow you to shift (like hitting something - just pushes back on you pushing) so you let out the clutch and then depress the clutch again and it will let you shift into 3rd. So I let out the clutch in 3rd gear just enough to let the truck start to move forward, then I immediatley depress the clutch and it will then allow it to shift into 1st??? I can not figure this part out...

Thank you!

~GOD BLESS~

john

 

Sounds like air is getting into the system from a bad master or slave,when you push the clutch the second time the air is compressed and more fluid flows in and gives a longer clutch stroke letting you change gears-like pumping the peddle with spongy brakes.

I would say you are on the right track and need to go with the prebled kit for ease of installation.

 

OK - I understand your explination. Since the Master Cylinder is the only part we are not replacing and it behaves that way now then perhaps it makes sense to replace it with new line so the job is complete from top to bottom if you will. Especially since we are making the switch to a single mass flywheel also... might as well do it right huh?

Thank you!

~GOD BLESS~

john

 

In the long run it's the easiest and cheapest solution.

 

Klien on thing you will want to have on hand when you put the trans back in is 2 bolts the same size and pitch but 6 to 8 inches longer than the bell housing bolts,These make great guide pins so you don't struggle as much.

 

Not a lot of room up there for long guide pins.

It's not that tough to put the bell housing up by itself and then you only have the trans to deal with but you need to be sure to guide the slave/release bearing over the input shaft as you go.

 

Thank you for all the info. So we pulled a long night last night and now the truck is back on its wheels and has about 100+ miles on the newely rebuilt clutch.

We replaced:
- New single mass flywheel
- clutch & bellhousing
- throughout bearing
- Master cylinder
- Slave Cylinder
- I am sure I am missing something (sleep deprivation)
- If it is part of the clutch system we replaced it.

My buddy, Perry, has a nice shop and a lift that can hold the 3500 so with his help we pulled it off. We also found a few universal joints that had some play so we replaced them as well. Oh and a new rear main seal also.

Problem: So when we got ready to drive the truck it started out just fine. Shifted great and no issues. We hit the interstate and put about 30 miles on it and when we got off at an exit and came to a red light it down shifted from 5th to 4th to 3rd just fine. I came to a complete stop and then when it went to a green light I could not shift into first. It was like the shifter would just not go into gear. Same thing with second & 3rd??? So I pumped the clutch several times and still could not get into first. I discovered that if I put it in 4th gear and then just start to let the clutch out until you feel it engage and try to move the truck you can then depress the clutch again and it will shift into 3rd and then repeated that (let clutch off in 3rd gear and depressed the clutch again) it now shifted into 2nd. That got us moving. Perry said we must have air in the line so we went back to the shop and decided to rebleed the system - several times.

It came off the lift and back onto the street and again from the start it seemed fine. Shifted into all gears OK. Some times when shifting into third I feel in the shifter **** a little bit of feedback when pushing into gear. No grinding just a little firmer push "past" something to get into 3rd. That is sometimes not all the time. So after the bleeding I got on the interstate to drive it home (about 60 miles) and it did great getting me through the side streets onto the interstate. But when I got off at the off ramp the same thing happened again. Unable to shift into 1st, 2nd or 3rd - unless you let the clutch off a little in a higher gear and then try again one of the lower gears. I was able to get into 2nd and started home from the interstate. I got onto my gravel road so I could test the 4WD. It shifted into 4HI fine and the clutch seemed to behave letting me shift into 1st, 2nd with no problems etc... Went into 4WD LOW and some thing shifted fine. So I went back to 2WD HI and it seemed to shift better but wouldn't you know - just before my house I stopped at a stop sign and from a complete stop no 1st or 2nd ( that is unable to shift into 1st or 2nd) So I got rolling in 3rd and that got me home. In the driveway for reverse at first it would not drop into reverse. So I depressed the clutch and the tried again and it dropped into reverse.

When it is shifting fine it runs great - no funny noaise or grinding etc.. Then you get this syndrom of being unable to shift into the bottom gears (1st, 2nd, 3rd) unless you play with the clutch and let it out in a higher gear in odrer to try to get into a lower gear.

So now we are thinking that perhaps we have a bad part in the mix somewhere? The classic "new part" that has failed problem. We have replaced everything.

I am asking for your thoughts, suggestions, ideas etc... I really need your help.

Decided not to drive it today, however, will get it out again tomorrow for a 4 hour road trip (round trip) to see how it does. Fluid level is fine. No leaks....

Any ideas?

Thank you!

~GOD BLESS~

john

 

Could be that the new clutch disc is hanging up on the input shaft splines some and keeping contact with the flywheel or pressure plate?
With a bit more driving it will probably wear in.