Big thing with rubber fuel line is most people do not seem to know that you need to use bio-diesel rated hose or it can be like a PMD. Might last forever and it might last a week.

I like buying Made in the USA STUFF. i DO NOT LIKE BUYING mADE IN cHINA STUFF.
So I do not like Dorman stuff.

But I am curious to see how their lifetime guaranteed PMD's hold up. Angelofishes also has the Dormans, He says he has sold about 140 with no returns. Is that because they are performing well or because people are saying "I knew I should not have bought a Dorman. I'll just bite the bullet and buy a new Standyne or Flight Systems rather than try another.

From what I've read, I would stay away from the Dorman. They do not seem worth the lifetime warranty.
For now I will only use new Flight Systems PMD's from Leroydiesel.com

I know others that have excellent luck with the new gray Standynes. But I had 3 bad.

I would definitely get the heat sink that somebody sells that has the flange coming off the finned side. with a bolt hole on each end. Not the style Leroy sells.

The style I like will mount to the license plate bracket bolt without removing and changing the bolt. Just the nut. The connection also points towards the bumper nostril for easy connection removal

 

Well guys. I finally bought the GMTDScan program and got the cord in! I am going to hook it up to my truck this weekend and see what she tells me.....

I hope I get somewhere with this headache! My truck has been sitting for over a month now because I havent had time to mess with it.

I am still on the fence about buying the "dorman" PMD module... Not sure I want to go thru the hassle of swapping it over and over if its a piece of crap.

But I guess its best to run the scan, check all the sensors and check the TDCO before I go too much further.


Are any of you guy aware of a place out there to get pre-bent fuel lines for my truck by any chance?

 

There are some places that will custom make oem style lines. I can not think of any names right now. Dang ole alzheimer's or was it the scotch

 

Ok so I ran the scan tool... I had 0 codes present but there were a couple in the history. They were 78-wastegate solenoid fault & 92 Cylinder Balance Fault #2

Dont forget I just did all 8 Injectors in the truck a few weeks ago and it has not ran much since then.

I quickly scanned thru everything And I did not notice anything out of the ordinary.

I ran the TDCO. when the truck was cold it seem to be right on the money once it warmed up it was off by about +1 degree. Would this cause my issue? I have included some pics of what I found. I also noticed that when it was warm and running the actual timing was jumping all over the place.

I cant upload the pics they are too big i guess...

 

Matt the easiest way to bleed them passenger side injector lines is to remove the inner wheel well takes 5 minutes with a impact gun 10 to 15 mins without And you will have all the room in the world to do what ever you want on that side of the motor

 

The engine temp MUST be 170F+ to run TDCO relearn and there can be no codes.

Injectors will self bleed on a running engine-no need to worry about them once the truck starts.
Might have a bad new injector?

Desired timing and actual timing should be close-don't expect exact,it's a moving target the ECM is always chasing.

What do you mean exactly about timing being off +1 degree?
The TDCO value or the actual timing?

 

I redid the test and played with the pump a bit. I did have the truck at over 170... I have the desired and actual timing about 4.4 and the TDCO -1.94

Should I keep trying to get it down closer to the -1.50?

Will the #9 resistor I have in the make any difference with these setting?

Also i still seem to have a slight skip when I rev it up in neutral.

As for bad new injector... I am not sure. I have no codes, I ran the injector test. As I shut each one off truck ran like **** which would tell me that they are all working... no??

 

-1.94 is ideal TDCO value leave it alone.

 

ok I will not mess with it anymore.

So would a bad or failing PMD cause a skip?

I drove the truck home last night. Drove it for about an hour seem to run ok.. I started it up this morning, Started and ran fine. I drove it for about 30 minutes then I decided to run her thru the automatic car wash here in town. When I pulled back out onto the main road it skipped a few times and then stalled. I pull over. cycled the key a few times and she started back up. It hasnt really stalled like that in quite awhile.

I am just at such a loss with this truck... UGH!!

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Hey Racer,

Do you know anything about the Duramax 21" engine fan swap?? If I upgrade to the 2000 Model year water pump and fan clutch with the 21" fan fit inside the stock fan shroud on my truck?

 

Some shroud's need a bit of trimming to clear that fan-others don't,its the luck of the draw.

PMD's cause a lot of strange running when they start to go bad,a skip or fish biting as it is called is often from a bad OS electronic noise filter or air in the fuel confusing the OS.