I want to thank you guys for the help that I already got from you. First the problem, then what I want to do about it.
PROBLEM: The truck has 146,XXX miles on it, and about a week after I got it, I noticed something new. I let it sit and idle when warm for about 10 minutes, while talking to someone. When I put it in gear, it backed up and started to go forward fine, then after driving about 100 feet, I started to slowly accelerate, from the 5MPH I was going, and it didn't die but it stumbled and then caught itself. Since then, when I first fire it up in the morning, I will back it up about 60 feet, then put it in drive, and after it goes about 50 feet, it stumbles, but keeps running, just no real power. After that it runs fine, till I shut it off, and then have to restart it. I live 80 miles east of ElPaso, on the most desolate road I've seen. This thing CAN'T break down, foe 80 miles there are no houses, and NO cell coverage.
On the way home, I have to climb the Hueco Tanks, about a 1,000 foot climb in about four or five miles, and it works fine.
I'm thinking that it is the lift pump, so I am going to play it safe, and get an American Built Lift Pump, Oil Pressure Switch, and in tank fuel sock. I will switch the fuel filter at the same time. I would imagine that there will be a fair amount of air in the system after I get done, HOW do I properly bleed the system?? Like I said in my intro, I have been twisting wrenches since 1964, but I have VERY limited experience on Diesels, but must work on my own vehicles. (My sole income is my V.A.Disability ,ans Social Security Disability checks).
THANKS for any advice guys, I REALLY appreciate it.
P.S., the oil and oil filter, and air filter change went off without a hitch. Brie

 

It sounds like you may be having issues with the OPS,The easiest way to bleed air from the fuel sytem is to hook a wire from the positve cable on one of your batteries and insert it to the G terminal on the ALDL port under the dash but first open the bleed valve on fuel filter till fuel comes out close it then repeat process after opening the T valve on front of the engine till fuel comes out,use only AC/DELCO parts for the truck off brands suck and are unreliable.

 

Did you try opening the t handle screw on the thermostat cover to verufy that it is the lift pump? There should be fuel coming out of the line when it is running. If no fuel comes out it will probably die and be difficult to start back up. That means it is a lift pump problem. I would start by checking the fuse under the t shaped cover on the passenger side firewall in the engine compartment.

I am new to this game too.

 

I will try those things guys, thanks. By the way Mayhem, my 98 is an OBD2 truck, so I'm not sure that the pins would be the same, but I will try the things that both of you suggest tomorrow after the "West Texas Spring winds", (straight line @ 55MPH from the SW today) lie down.
Brie

 

My Bad taylor it was early this morning when I replied to that post and I should know better to post before my second cup of coffee you can bleed your truck at the relay under the hood by removing the relay and using a small peice of wire will get a picture of which slots here later

 

I take it that you will show me how to shunt the relay and OPS, running the lift pump and bleeding any trapped air from the "T" handled valve by the thermostat housing? By the way, where DOES that outlet hose from that valve dump the fuel / air at?
Brie

 

i just put a frc10 on last night and although i did open t valve, my truck fired right up and dident skip a beat so i quickley closed it. somthing tells me our trucks can handle a bit of air

 

It will pump it out on the ground through the hose that is attached OR you can put the hose into a can or old oil jug or something to cut down on the mess.

 

Apply 12v to the red wire with the insulator located near the underhood fusebox below the master cylinder-that will activate the LP for priming the filter.

Have you checked or changed the last ditch screen on the fuel heater mast in the filter housing?
They can become plugged and need replacement-sometimes they also stick in the filter and get lost.

When the last ditch screen is lost debris can clog the 2 screens at the IP fuel inlet fitting-they may need attention as well.

I would also replace the IP fuel return hose with a section of clear diesel rated fuel line so that you can monitor the fuel system for air intrusion.

Air intrusion is identified by bubbles in the return line-if bubbles are noted there the air is most likely entering between the fuel level in the tank and the LP,O rings on the LP fuel line need to seal properly as well as at any other joints in the lines.

A plugged vent in the filler cap can cause similar issues.

Also if the problem only occurs at startup after and extended shutdown period,you likely have a leak from the filter housing where the fuel heater or water in fuel sensor are located,this is common and new seals can be had cheap-One other thing is that the large O ring for the filter itself is 1 time use ONLY,if the filter is loosened and retightened for any reason that seal may be damaged beyond its ability to seal and a new filter needs to be installed.

 

I just pup a LP on my truck today, I just opened the bleeder on the fuel filter and turned the key on and off a couple times.. closed the bleeder and she fired right up.