After much investigating, I did the insulating of my intake and boost tubes. It did make a pretty significant difference in the EGT's so I would recommend it for anyone. My average EGT's dropped from 400* at idle to an average of 300* at idle and steady cruising at about 35-45 MPH. At speeds of 50 to 70 MPH and under a load, without getting into really hard, the average had dropped from, an average of between 800*-1000* down to an avg of between 700*-950*. Overall, it was a pretty good drop for no more than I put into it. the total cost wound up being a total of right at $50.

Tools Needed

10mm wrench (( I recommend ratchet wrenches ))
7/16" wrench
Flathead Screwdriver
1/8th alan bit "wrench" for MAF sensor
2 cans of Duplicolor spry on bed liner.
and one or two rolls of plumbing insulating tape, preferably with the aluminum outer shell...
One roll of duct tape.
Masking or electrical tape.
"Patience"

First, start by removing your intake. Depending on whether you have an after market or factory unit will determine how to do this, but they are pretty similar.
I started by removing the MAF sensor, using the 1/8th alan head wrench, very carefully loosen and remove the MAF sensor screws and pull out the MAF sensor and lay it to the side. ((preferably inside the cab somewhere out of the way to avoid damage.))

Then remove the other screws that hold the intake in place. On my intake, because it is a K&N intake I had to use a flathead screwdriver to remove the clamps that hold the AFE filter to the intake tube, and the clamps at the other end of the tube at the turbo intake tube.
I also had to remove a bolt from the support under the intake tube that is a 7/16" head.

Now that you have the intake tube off, carefully wrap it with the Plumbing insulating tape. making sure that you keep it nice and tight with as little tube showing through the tape as possible. Once the tape is on the tube, wrap that with duct tape to basically hold it in place and create a good seal for the bed liner to hold to. Once this is done, you take the tube and coat it with the bed liner material making sure to use light coats, allowing each coat to dry before applying more. this will insure that you do not have week spots in the liner. Now, it is good to mention that if you are looking for good looks, do not do this upgrade, it is for functionality not looks, and with this kind of wrapping it would be near to impossible IMO to get it to look good. Then end result looks like this...


Make sure that you give the intake tube plenty of time to dry before you reinstall it into the truck.
Now it is time to upgrade the Boost tubes. They are a little easier, because for lack of room in the engine compartment I did not wrap them with the insulating tape, I only coated them with the spray on bed liner.
you will need to loosen the clamps that hold the tubes in place, this requires a 10mm wrench, and I would recommend a ratchet wrench so that you do not have to spend a ton of time on these clamps with a regular wrench. these are the tubes in question;


Once you have these tubes out, you will want to use your masking or electrical tape to tape up the following sections of the tubes so that you do not get the Bed Liner material on them.

Using the same method of spraying light coats, spray the tubes on layer at a time, while allowing the Bed Liner material to dry between coats. This will insure good even coverage that is uniform. you will want to spray on about 5-10 total coats of the Bed Liner material to insure a good thick coating that will withstand the heat under the hood, as well as the abuse they may suffer while you reinstall them in the truck. this is what you will end up with.



And after reinstalling the tubes, you are just about done...
The one thing that you want to do when you THINK that you are done?
Check, and RECHECK the clamps on you intake and boost tubes. You DO NOT want to leave one of the clamps on the boost tubes loose and go flying down the road, You will not like the result, So be patient, take your time, and make sure that you get those clamps GOOD and TIGHT!! To avoid any unnecessary damage from one of them coming off....

This should only take about four hours total, and most of that is time for the Bed Liner material to dry good.
Good Luck, and have fun!

 

Nice write up. May have to give this a try. I will have to think about this and see what I could come up with for a finish. I like the idea of lowering temps. Not sure if I want to use the bedliner stuff for my finish. I'm thinking of maybe some chrome or colored wrap of some kind

 

Very Nice Job Here

 

I think you can order the Duplicolor stuff in different colors, for me, this truck is worked too much to worry about looks...
Although, IMO, the bedliner stuff looked alright on the boost tubes where I did not use the plumbing wrap. it was nice and smooth, etc. but the wrap I used on the intake just would not turn out that way... I am not totally sure that anyone could get it too, it is too bulky...

 

i might need to try this on my Dodge. is there a decrease in EGT's when in kill mode, ie WOT? do they climb as fast or slower? is the max you use to see lower now?

 

Sweet Writeup! Ive been considering doing somethin like this lately.. I will definately look back here when I get ready.

 

Just try using oilfield pipe dope. Works really well.

 

When at full throttle the EGT's were definitely lower, they also cool a lot quicker too, after an all out drag to the top of the scale of what the truck will do from a stand still, it only got up to 1280 or so, and by the time I slowed back down to 55 the EGT's were back down to 400, and then again by the time I stopped they were at 200. It is truly amazing what they are at with this mod. I did not expect this much of a difference!!!

 

I wonder how that lizard skin ceramic coating would work

 

try it, and post some pics...