I built the deck around the house. It's a wrap around. It's 20X60 across the back and then runs 6' up the side about 36' and then to 10 in front about 30' across the front. In back it goes from 20' down to 16' about half way across the back. All in all it's about 1128 sq ft. I used Trex for the floor and the rails. I used the duel thread screws so it didn't mushroom the trex. They have a course wood screw thread to start and then half way it changes to a fine thread with a torx tip. Worked really well and they are anodized so they don't promote rust. I used gold wood screw for the treated lumber. I used sandwiched 2X10 beams on 4X4's using the pyramid cement blocks and they worked great. Then I used 2X6 on 16" centers to rest on the beams which were every 4' that way I could put a hot tub on there if I wanted to. I used lag bolts on the beams and 4X's and lag bolts on the header and ledger boards. Probably overkill but I hate a spungy deck and the trex is a lot like working with licorice. I used 5/4 X6 trex for the floor and trex 4X's for the upright rails and then 2X4 trex and 2X2 trex for the rails. Works good but pay extra attention to the rails because the weight can sag the trex and it will look terrible. Some guys use cedar or redwood for the rail as they don't get direct sun or have standing water like the floor. I chose trex for everything and haven't really regretted it except for the cost but I have not had to stain anything and the deck has been up for about 4 years now. Couldn't be happier. If your ground is rocky and solid I wouldn't hesitate to use the cement pyramids. If it isn't then you amy want to get some pro opinions from around your neck of the woods. The last thing you want is settling once you're done.

BTW, get yourself a deck screw drill like a Dewalt. I broke down and bought one and wow, I couldn't believe the difference. Set the depth and go to town.

 

Alright, I've built tons of decks, I worked for a custom home builder for a few years, and we did all our own decks. Keep in mind, this was in Western NY, so things will be a little different than from where you're at.

First, good move going to composite decking, it doesn't look quite as nice to start with, but you won't have the problems many wood decks have in 3-5 years.

Second, DO NOT USE THE MAIL BOX POST'S SETS! If that is what you're talking about (basically a pyramid shaped stake that you set into concrete). The posts are the backbone of your deck, they are what keep it level, keep it from heaving after floods, soft soil, freezing, snow, and so on. And they are what support the deck, so if you ever want to put a hot tub out there or whatever, they need to be strong! Here in WNY we dig everything to at least 48" below grade, personally I go to 72" where I can (sometimes bedrock doesn't permit that, but then we have a strong base anyways).

Third, As far as your joist's go, and how often you should set posts, its really up to you... Do you want a deck that'll last as long as your house? Or a pile of junk thats so uneven you can't walk on it in 5 years? If you want to do it right the first time, set your posts in 1ft concrete footers (at least 16" down if your in the south, 36" if your ground freezes during the winter in the south, at least 48" in the north, some places are much deeper, otherwise it'll heave) every 4ft. You can use 2x6 for everything, but definitely do them every 16" OC, composite decking flexes a lot more than wood, no matter what brand you go with, so if you spread out your joist's you'll have a very springy deck that will hold water in the pockets. I use 2x10 or 2x12 for rim board (around the outside of the deck where your joists attach), but thats just me. It is a lot stronger, and personally I think it looks better. Also, if you plan or ever think you might add a hot tub, make that section of the deck at least 2x10 joists and no question, you MUST use hangers (local code here just got bumped to 2x12 I think, with Double Shear Hangers for them).

Last thing, if you can afford it, use hangers on every joist, not just for your posts, it seems like overkill, but when you have to repair a few collapsed joists you'll wish you did, plus it really cleans up the rim board not having nail or screw holes in it every 6 inches. And as far as your decking goes, I use a 16D nail as a spacer between each board for composite decking, and the nail head for each board to the house. Some guys butt them tight, but again, you'll hold water (like your wife during PMS).

Any other questions?

P.S. If you can afford it, run screws instead of nails, it takes a little longer to install, and for your size deck it might cost $400 more than nails, but you'll never get squeaks, splits, or hammer impressions, and it adds a lot to the strength of the deck. I like the Square Drives, because they don't seem to strip as easy as anything else, especially after a few years and some rust. Oh yeah, and make sure you crown all your joist's... it makes a huge difference in final apearance not having waves where one crown is up and anther is down.

 

Square drive is called a robinson - they come #1, 2 and 3 typically. #2 is common for everything up to a #12 screw. No those numbering systems are different.

Anyway, all this talk about hot tubs makes me very nervous. Consider the following:
1.0L of water weighs 1.0 kg. A hot tub typically takes takes 6 people + 1500 or so litres of water. If each person weighs 100 kg that's 2100 kg or 4620 pounds of weight. There is no way a 2x6 frame will hold that up, period. You must get this designed by an engineer for fear that it will fail, making a mess and making you liable to clean it all up.

My guess is that you would need to consider either lowering the tub on to a slab on grade or building a perimeter strip footing 36" wide, 12" deep around the entire object and build a stick frame wall to the underside of the tub with SPF #2 or better 2x6 studs no more than 12" apart complete with bottom and 2 top plates. This then supports the additional floor system which would be at least 4 ganged beams of 4- 2x10, blocked and fastened with the applicable hangers. On top of that you place your 1" (yes, 1") subfloor which is glued and screwed and then the tub sits on that.

Whether one has built many decks or not disregarding the advice of a design professional in this case is not something I would advise.

Again, consult your local building code, look at the fine home building website, check the "this old house website" and above all else be certian you are not going to cause you or your friends and family grief by doing such a thing.

Just trying to be honest. Don't take it the wrong way.

Cheers.

 

Whoa Whoa Whoa, He didn't mention anything about a hot tub, I was just telling him to plan ahead. So if he ever thought he might want a Hot Tub on the deck, he'd better build it right, and there was no way 2x6 would hold it.

Personally, we always used 2x12 at least where the hot tub was going, with double shear hangers, and extra support posts underneath the deck in a 4ft grid. Again, it depends on the job and the size of the tub. And what we do here is not necessarily the best option for where he is, (I don't even know where he is). Just trying too give some heads up, and general guidelines for construction. The guys using the pyramid shaped concrete block just scare me, I guess in the right climate they might work, but even still, its far from the best option.

 

I'm not trying to pull rank or anything of that sort just making the average joe aware of the major problems they will face with a hot tub install if they don't do it right.

Some people don't know what wood is capable of and just use what they can afford. This is not the right approach if you are doing something like a tub on a deck.

I just would like everyone to repeat after me:
If the board is on the flat = thicker is better. if the board is in the vertical (tall) position = deeper is better.

The devil is in the details.

 

ialso repair and set hot tubs too......yes i know......jack of all trades......it keeps me fed......i do not recommend setting the tub down below your deck cause you will play hell getting into repair it or removing it if you ever have a warranty issue........trust me......ive done it all..........unless you build access panels around the tub to pull up to get beside it........some of the hot tubs we work on seat 8 people and are 8 feet by 8 feet and cost in the neighborhood of 11-13K........if you do put it on the deck she better have posts set close like said erlier......cause a hot tub falling through the deck will void the warranty......trust me.....I KNOW......

 

So Logan, I gotta ask, was the hot tub that went kerplunk on a deck you built, or somebody else's?

 

dude i was worried about walking on this deck and i weigh 330lbs......and it was not mine......