Several issues to discuss here: First, if you have an auto tranny it is good to pre-warm the truck with the auto tranny in neutral and the park brake on, this allows the tranny oil to circulate and warm up rather then just relying on heat transfer thru conduction from the Almighty Cummins. Another warming method recommended from Cummins is to engage your exhaust brake, My 01 has an idle EGT of 450*F and with exhaust brake on it idles at 700* so this is a huge plus, there are downfalls of idling when the motor is cold with coolant temps below 180* the fuel in the combustion chamber doesn't reach a complete burn at these temps and excess fuel washes the cylinder walls and ends up in yer oil, the oil ain't hot enough to maintain flash point so the fuel simply build up and dilutes the oil, thinner oil doesn't lubricate well and wear becomes an issue....................see a trend here???? Get the picture???? Oh and did I mention the use of block heaters yet. I guess what I am trying to drive here is the fact that a warm motor is a good thing and a cold motor is a bad thing. Personally I will only idle a cold motor for maybe 5 minutes, thats good enough for you to take off at a rate of reduced power, please don't damage yer motor when temps are down, let the coolant get up to normal operating temps before you give it the onion. Did I mention winter cold fronts as a warming aid? Stay tuned for more cold weather tips.

Cheers, Kevin

 

WHIT:

Add, that the choice of fluids (oil type) makes a considerable difference as does adding 2, yes 2 battery blankets in those really cold areas. I still have and still use my winter front - even here on wet coast - works wonders really. These trucks don't really generate heat until they are put under load. The best way to do that of course is to drive away real slow and get the fluids moving, slowly adding load and warming the truck up.

The worst thing is to think that this truck is a 1970's tractor that needs to idle all bloody night... LOL...