Clutch reccomendations
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Diesel Fan
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 37
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Clutch reccomendations
I have a 04.5 cummins in a Ram 2500 Heavy Duty with a 6 speed manual. EJw/A and 35" tires. 188K miles on original clutch.
When I am pulling my 28' travel trailer especially on grades the clutch will slip a little if I spool up the turbo in 4th and 5th. I know this is a lot of load but it's also just a matter of time and this clutch has lived a long life. I can get a few more months out of it but it's time to start shopping for a new clutch.
I have noticed that the Heavy Duty designation means a lot of parts are actually from a 3500, especially brakes. My OEM clutch has very heavy pedal pressure, is my clutch a 3500?
This one has served well, should I go with another OEM clutch?
What is a tough and reliable aftermarket clutch upgrade?
The tranny is huge. How much does it weigh? I am assuming I will have to split the xfer case but can two guys wrestle this thing out without losing a limb?
thx
When I am pulling my 28' travel trailer especially on grades the clutch will slip a little if I spool up the turbo in 4th and 5th. I know this is a lot of load but it's also just a matter of time and this clutch has lived a long life. I can get a few more months out of it but it's time to start shopping for a new clutch.
I have noticed that the Heavy Duty designation means a lot of parts are actually from a 3500, especially brakes. My OEM clutch has very heavy pedal pressure, is my clutch a 3500?
This one has served well, should I go with another OEM clutch?
What is a tough and reliable aftermarket clutch upgrade?
The tranny is huge. How much does it weigh? I am assuming I will have to split the xfer case but can two guys wrestle this thing out without losing a limb?
thx
Diesel Bomber
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,981
Likes: 347
From: Georgia
I think your talking about a NV5600 they have a good large 13" flywheel that will except a valair or southbend single disk kevlar or ceramic clutch and pressure plate assembly. You will need the heavy duty master and slave cylinder also.
As far as wrestling the trans out by two grown men its more awkward than I would attempt.
A trans jack would be a great idea so you can strap it down. Also it will help support the trans and transfer case as an assembly. Just separate from the bell housing at the four main bolts. then remove the bell housing.
Or just go for the bell housing bolts which ever you find easier.
I think you will have a hard time stabbing the trans back into place by hand with out a trans jack. Unless you know the Hulk is your friend and doesn't mind holding it while you start the bolts
.
As far as wrestling the trans out by two grown men its more awkward than I would attempt.
A trans jack would be a great idea so you can strap it down. Also it will help support the trans and transfer case as an assembly. Just separate from the bell housing at the four main bolts. then remove the bell housing.
Or just go for the bell housing bolts which ever you find easier.
I think you will have a hard time stabbing the trans back into place by hand with out a trans jack. Unless you know the Hulk is your friend and doesn't mind holding it while you start the bolts
.
Thread Starter
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Diesel Fan
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Reviving an old thread....
I am now 2 years, 4 months and 27k miles down the road since my clutch started slipping. It still slips a little but now the throw out bearing has seized so I cant procrastinate this any longer. I'm buying a clutch kit for myself for Christmas.
I have looked around and think I have settled on the Valair NMU70279-04. It is a fair upgrade from stock and is rated at 600hp/1100ft/lbs. I can get one for $500 and free shipping. From what I have read the South Bend is somewhat better but significantly more expensive. Other options online are cheaper but dont look reliable.
Does anyone have any experience with this clutch?
From what I have read, it is likely I can just have my flywheel resurfaced, this will save me $250
Will I need a HD clutch master?
I am now 2 years, 4 months and 27k miles down the road since my clutch started slipping. It still slips a little but now the throw out bearing has seized so I cant procrastinate this any longer. I'm buying a clutch kit for myself for Christmas.
I have looked around and think I have settled on the Valair NMU70279-04. It is a fair upgrade from stock and is rated at 600hp/1100ft/lbs. I can get one for $500 and free shipping. From what I have read the South Bend is somewhat better but significantly more expensive. Other options online are cheaper but dont look reliable.
Does anyone have any experience with this clutch?
From what I have read, it is likely I can just have my flywheel resurfaced, this will save me $250
Will I need a HD clutch master?
Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 299
Likes: 26
From: DFW Texas
Valair and Southbend are both great companies to deal with.
The clutch they reccomended ended is good for a stock or stock plus a mild a tune application. And is good to max tow ratings.
I have towed with a ceramic clutch and it will be very jerky and will be extremely difficult on steep inclines for stopping and starting. The worst is trying to back a trailer up hill.
If if you want something rated higher than the clutch they roccomended then I would look at a dual disk that’s setup for a towing application. Good for 500hp or so and will still be smooth.
If a stock clutch has lasted you this long and you like the characteristics of how it drives. Then I’d probably go with the reccomended clutch.
The clutch they reccomended ended is good for a stock or stock plus a mild a tune application. And is good to max tow ratings.
I have towed with a ceramic clutch and it will be very jerky and will be extremely difficult on steep inclines for stopping and starting. The worst is trying to back a trailer up hill.
If if you want something rated higher than the clutch they roccomended then I would look at a dual disk that’s setup for a towing application. Good for 500hp or so and will still be smooth.
If a stock clutch has lasted you this long and you like the characteristics of how it drives. Then I’d probably go with the reccomended clutch.
Thread Starter
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Diesel Fan
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Valair and Southbend are both great companies to deal with.
The clutch they reccomended ended is good for a stock or stock plus a mild a tune application. And is good to max tow ratings.
I have towed with a ceramic clutch and it will be very jerky and will be extremely difficult on steep inclines for stopping and starting. The worst is trying to back a trailer up hill.
If if you want something rated higher than the clutch they roccomended then I would look at a dual disk that’s setup for a towing application. Good for 500hp or so and will still be smooth.
If a stock clutch has lasted you this long and you like the characteristics of how it drives. Then I’d probably go with the reccomended clutch.
The clutch they reccomended ended is good for a stock or stock plus a mild a tune application. And is good to max tow ratings.
I have towed with a ceramic clutch and it will be very jerky and will be extremely difficult on steep inclines for stopping and starting. The worst is trying to back a trailer up hill.
If if you want something rated higher than the clutch they roccomended then I would look at a dual disk that’s setup for a towing application. Good for 500hp or so and will still be smooth.
If a stock clutch has lasted you this long and you like the characteristics of how it drives. Then I’d probably go with the reccomended clutch.
Thank you...I bought their recommended clutch today. It is called stock Heavy Duty so it must have some improvement over OEM. I wanted a dual disk but the cost was just about double and not in the budget especially 2 days before Christmas..
I am now shopping for tranny fluid to be replaced at the time of the clutch swap. I see a lot of favorites....Amsoil which is stupid expensive then Redline MTL and Pennzoil Syncromesh. I am going to look locally for the Penz, if unavailable I will go online for the redline
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