d/d clutch wont disengage completely?
#1
d/d clutch wont disengage completely?
Just put in a new southbend dd clutch. Noticed the trans was a little harder to shift but still drove it home from my buddys shop. Probably have about 100 miles on it. Today I started the truck up, put it in reverse and the trucked jumped back a foot. Do I need to upgrade the hydraulics? The pedal feels the same as it was before, but the clutch picks up right off the floor. The clutch is the 3250# plate model.
#2
#4
no that is not true the clutch should fully disenguage weather it is brok in or not. true that you have to break the clutch in but not true to make it disengugae. may have something on a bins in side. upgrade hydros are available for 2nd gen truck threw southbend or valair they are a hd version
#6
I have a 3850 lb pressure plate dd southbend clutch, and I've had a bunch of trouble with it not disengaging all the way. YOU WILL EAT UP YOUR SYNCHROS FAST IF YOU DON'T FIX IT, expecially the 3rd gear synchro. If you don't have the southbend upgraded hydraulics, here's what you should try: \
Get a 1/2" wrench or socket and take the slave cylinder off the bellhousing. Pull the metal rod out of the slave cylinder. Pull off the little plastic cap that goes over the end that was stuck into the bellhousing. Weld a little bit of extra metal on to the end of it. About 1/4 to 1/2 inch is a good start. With a bench grinder or something similar, grind a smooth rounded end onto the part you just added material to. Put the plastic cap back on the end, and stick it back into the slave cylinder. Bolt the slave cylinder up, and see how it is.
If that does not work, you may end up needing to bleed your hydraulics if that's possible. I can't remember if it is, it's been years since I had stock hydraulics.
Get a 1/2" wrench or socket and take the slave cylinder off the bellhousing. Pull the metal rod out of the slave cylinder. Pull off the little plastic cap that goes over the end that was stuck into the bellhousing. Weld a little bit of extra metal on to the end of it. About 1/4 to 1/2 inch is a good start. With a bench grinder or something similar, grind a smooth rounded end onto the part you just added material to. Put the plastic cap back on the end, and stick it back into the slave cylinder. Bolt the slave cylinder up, and see how it is.
If that does not work, you may end up needing to bleed your hydraulics if that's possible. I can't remember if it is, it's been years since I had stock hydraulics.
Last edited by v8440; 11-26-2010 at 02:29 PM.
#7
i am saying the clutch may be on a bind inside the bell housing the first clutch i installed in my 94 dodge nv4500 was on a bind and did the eexact same thing i unistalled it then reinstalled it and it was solved. i would recomend with a 3800lb pressure plate getting the upgrade hydros or you will fight it forever there not that expensive call dan at valair or southbend and get some ordered
#8
Who are you talking to about the hydraulics and 3800 lb pressure plate? He doesn't have a 3800 lb pressure plate, he has the 3250. I do have the 3850 lb plate, and I've had the upgraded hydraulics for years.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Don't offer upgraded hydraulics for a 2nd gen truck with an nv4500? Unless there's some difference between his truck and my '98, southbend does offer the hydraulics. I have them on my truck and have for several years.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Don't offer upgraded hydraulics for a 2nd gen truck with an nv4500? Unless there's some difference between his truck and my '98, southbend does offer the hydraulics. I have them on my truck and have for several years.
Last edited by v8440; 11-29-2010 at 07:03 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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