Greetings all. My son has an 88 ford 7.3. It ran poorly with bad compression and knocks, and so was rebuilt. We never got it running and it was parked for two years. We are trying again...
The engine will turn over but will not fire. There is fuel at the filter and clean fuel comes out the Schrader valve when bled. One line cap was removed at the IP rotor to check fuel delivery. Barely a random spit. The shutoff solenoid has power and functions. Very little fuel will weep from the return elbow atop the IP, although the bowl fills. Are there any tests for IP functionality? Priming sequence?
Any wisdom from the masses is appreciated!

 

Sounds like the head and rotor for the pump are out of tolerance, which means it's time for a new pump

 

Same issue I had with mine, like Dortiz said, time to replace it!

 

Thank you for the replies.
Is there any way to confirm by any testing procedure? We don't have an extra few hundred laying about at the moment for a new pump unless unavoidable. Are there any rebuild kits available? Or a supplier for parts and pieces?

 

I do not recommend rebuilding due to the extremely tight tolerances and the possibility of a run-a-way engine, but I believe there are some places you are able to order some parts from, I do not know from the top of my head, could always shop around for a reliable shop to rebuild your IP. If you're truck was to start and then would not restart, I could tell you how to test it, but I do not know how to test one that doesn't already start

 

Did a bit of research, there's more companies out there offering rebuilds than there is rebuild kits.. I wonder how much that'll run.

 

I picked my rebuilt pump for $440 no core charge , the prices are different all over the place, you can have your pump shipped off to Mel and ask him to build it into a baby moose pump

 

As an update, I got a seal and o-ring kit, delivery valve spring and stop, and transfer pump vanes for about $80. We broke it down on a clean sheet on the bench and washed up everything. I had found an informative manual online that shows a step by step removal, teardown, inspection and reassembly of the Stanadyne DB2 pump.
We rebuilt it, installed and bled it. We do have some air infiltration issues at the return line seals, but the 7.3 does run now. First time in two years after the engine rebuild.
The process of the pump build was rather simple and informative. My son and I now have a much better working knowledge of the DB2.

this should be a clickable link to the manual
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...nHLlixPAegLNqA

 

Glad it's up and running, don't forget to have the pump dynamically timed with the engine usually to about 9.5 degrees advanced