I'm not saying wvo is better or worse and Im not saying Bio won't work - it does work. I am saying Bio-D wasn't the thing for me. Not that I won't start trying to make it in the future too. I also realize theres not a ton of older diesels running around out there but the ones that are still there will have to modify the seals in the fuel system to run Bio or as you said, wait till they deteriorate and start leaking and then replace them.
But vegi oil requires nothing more than heating to safely fuel a diesel engine. No modifications of any engine components are require. Lets leave it at that or if you can offer some proof on that opinion, i'm listening but if its a matter of your opinion based on what you have read, I will still disagree. So lets agree to disagree.

 

You said my statement
"Biodiesel will run in any diesel engine" was a false statement.

It was not false and it was not at all misleading or in any way can be taken as having any hidden meaning. The statement is true in both fact and meaning.

The fact is, biodiesel is a better fuel than WVO.

If you want to compare biodiesel to svo systems, you'd better pick on a different subject than biodiesel compatibility issues.. (there are almost none).

If I was selling WVO, i'd be plugging the crap out of the flammable chemicals we use as well as a few other tid-bits.

But, like I said, if you start comparing compatiblity, quality, or any of the other technical stuff, you'd loose the debate fast.

Stick to the facts and let your customer make up their own minds. Flammable methanol scares the crap out of a lot of people.
Caustic lye's scare them even more.

A biodiesel processor takes up a bit more room than a svo filter unit.

There are other things too if you think about it.

But like I said, if you start comparing quality or other things, you're bringing a knife to a gun fight.

 

What exactly would need to be redesigned to fit the combustion characteristics of burning WVO? Is it that different when burned at 400-800* (normal EGT range for a stock truck)?

 

I'm not gonna touch that one Nate...

 

And no response to my post eh?

Come on Chenry.. Step up to the plate!

Civilized and polite debate is what makes forums like this go tick-tock.

There's nothing wrong with being proved wrong and certainly nothing wrong with proving someone else wrong. Or even a draw.

This is how information and knowledge is grows in places like this..

but you gave up just to easy..

 

This was never a debate, you were offering opinion or hearsay and i was offering fact and you would not give me any room to wiggle. A debate is not about opinion.
I don't want this conversation to get heated so i will keep quiet.
Now i'll let you answer Nates question as I too am still wanting to hear this. :pc:

 

man i drank all mine last wekend. im still hurting and its been 48hours

 

I am presently using solvent refined filtered fryer oil in a 6.7. Amazingly, I quit having fuel injection and particulate problems after I converted. Fuel economy is back up to the high teens.

My biggest expense is Stoddard Solvent that is then mixed at a rate of 3% solvent to 97% highly filtered used fryer oil, by volume not weight. When the mix is completed, I add 4 ounces of Hydrotex Lubrakleen to each 50 gallons of solvent refined oil.

Do not use some old elcheapo filter on the used fryer oil, but go with a pressure system that uses cheap large crud filters first and then a 3 micron at the final stage. You also have to heat the fryer oil to 158 degrees F or 70 degrees C for the filtering process.

The resulting solvent refined product requires no heating for the engine to function in normal summertime weather conditions. I have not tried it in cold weather, but will before the year is out.

Not counting my time, the cost is roughly 8 cents US $ a gallon for fuel that seems to work better than the pump stuff. Who knows what my time is worth, I figure it is worth it screw the oil companies!

 

SWEET

 

I wish I had the space to do this. I am definately going to do it once I get some space.