i saw it so i had to comment. all 6.9's burn oil on there own whether you want it to or not

 

How do you heat that oil to 165 f. Are you using a radiator tap or maybe an electric heater? I'm thinking you don't have to heat the whole take. Maybe heat it using the same principal as an on demand water heater?

 

I don't know why you'd want to heat WMO. Modern multi-vis engine oils are thermally stable from around -20 to +250F.

 

I'm not sure why. Maybe heating it to 165 F thins in enough to get to the injectors?

 

This is a suction problem related to viscosity.
Usually this causes burned up IP pumps- a common problem of Veggie users.

 

I have 2 tanks, vavles, 12x3 20 plate heat exchanger, 2 micron filter. it goes through my vavles, through my raptor pump, through the heater, then the stock filter, then the 2 micron after. I have a temperature sensor and fuel pressure sensor between the filter and the IP. running pretty good so far on %75 WMO/WTF and cut with kero/diesel. fuel temp runs right around 180* has a haze at idle and very lightly while crusing so i might thin it alittle more next go around or try more WTF. Also want to try some mineral oil, have a decent supply of it from a refridgeration place.

 

i am pleased to see so much interest in this subject. i had been under the impression that this was so hard that it might as well be impossible. i am in complete agreement wit the filtering etc. that has been posted already. this is great for cleaning the stuff up that you will be working on, however for those of us really diving in head first and trying to make a go at this, here it goes. there are many different constituents in the waste motor oil that some of us will be using. i don't have any boiling points or exact figures at my fingers at the moment, but am currently working on an apparatus to prepare fuel grade oil from waste motor oil. i have a waters 1040 high pressure liquid chromatograph, but it is not up and running at the moment. when it is, myself and my company will be offering testing services on a fee for analysis in order to determine exactly what needs to be done to your specific batch of oil. until then, we (all of us) can follow the cleanup procedures already laid out. after this we, our company will determine what the constituents of or oil is. we built a stainless steel still with thermocouples at strategic points to determine the temperature of the vapors at different places in the still. i also built a stainless steel fractioning column that will allow us to separate the various fractions of oils coming over. i will have pictures as we develop our equipment. the key piece in all this is a high vacuum mechanical vacuum pump. we purchased ours from grainger, but there are others at northern or stores that carry industrial equipment. my partner is currently working on a manostat to accurately keep a specific vacuum over an extended period of time. please feel free to ask any questions. i am sure that i need to expand on some things, because i even lost myself along the way...tee,hee

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heating the oil makes it flow more easily. all of you have some great ideas. my complicated setup is mainly for streamlining a production scale manufacturing/filtering/straining/magnetic removal and warming for viscosity testing, not necessarily in that order. a great idea for the heating of anything from waste vegetable oil, filtered or straight clean new vegetable oil, to waste motor oil with a modicum of filtering, magnetic straining, to vacuum fractionally distilling inn order to collect diesel #2 and leaving a residue that can still be burned for heat in a waste oil heater. replacing the fuel lines with jacketed fuel lines where the coolant for the engine passes around the fuel lines. i would be happy to describe this process and i will be posting pictures as we fabricate our own.....

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i am anxious to see how the mineral oil thing works out. i am waiting with baited breath, one never knows what could happen....

 

wow this sounds pretty complex and very interesting, pictures are a must!

 

I'll be putting in a Fass to replaced the lift pump in the engine compartment. Do you think a Fass with be able to handle WMO and WVO without buring up? I'm putting in the Fass because I have 295K miles with the original pump and injectors.

 

They are injection line heaters.Heat your fuels to 225 degrees. Find them at
www.fattywagons.com