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Adjusted APPS, I Was Bored
well i got bored today and decided to see if my apps was in need of adjustment. i have not had any problems with my truck, no dead pedal, nothin, but checked it anyway. it was over 1.2 volts off :f: so i took out my volt meter and adjusted it to within .02 volts. i have not driven the truck yet to see if there is any differance, but it was definetaly out o adjustment. will let ya know if it made any differance or not tomorrow. maybe next time i get bored i will adjust the valves :duh3:
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is there anyway i car get a link or a how to on that particular adjustment? i have a friend with a 98 24valve and he's had some problems with his lately....
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sure, here it is from the "other site"
This is different than resetting it. I did it to mine today and it made a nice difference. Boost comes up faster and smoke is down. You have to measure the voltage that the APPS is putting out then compare that to the voltage that it's supposed to be set at. For example. My apps was putting out .450 volts and it was supposed to be putting out .584 volts. I went and adjusted it and now I'm putting out .580 volts. It's not a major difference but it is nice. I've only put maybe 5 miles on it so far but come wednesday I'll be doing 500 miles a week so I'll give yall a better idea on how it drives. Instructions: Tools: Digital Volt Meter, T-20 Torx bit, #1 phillips, 10mm socket With the key on, engine off you need to probe the APPS wire to see where the voltage is currently set at. The best location to probe the wire is on the PCM (Power Control Module) which is located on the passenger firewall behind the air intake. * You want the C1 connector, this is the connector closest to the engine * You want the orange wire with a dark blue tracer which is pin #23 * Voltage should be somewhere around 0.5 volts, * At this point the voltage reading does not matter, it just has to be accurately written down for later reference TURN THE IGNITION OFF ON THE TRUCK Remove the black plastic cover off of your APPS. There are two plastic screws. One on the top and one on the front facing the radiator. It takes a little prying to pull it off. Undo the 6-10mm bolts that hold the bracketru in place but DO NOT REMOVE THE CABLES!! You will notice the APPS is on the back of the bracketry that you just removed, it is held in place by 2-T20 torx bit screws. These screws have a little bit of locktite on them so make sure you have a good socket and gently give a little tap with a hammer before attempting to loosen. Be very careful because these screws strip VERY easily and you only get one shot at them (VERY VERY VERY IMPORTANT; They are VERY tight). On the APPS you will find a white tag that gives you the information on what the APPS voltage should be. * After loosening the screws (do not remove) you can rotate the APPS clockwise or counter clockwise to get the adjustment (towards the front of the truck increases voltage and towards the rear of the truck decreases voltage) * The reading you took at the beginning of the process on pin #23 should match the white tag on your APPS. If it doesn't the adjust accordingly. |
can u do this on third gens too, i get dead pedal every now and then
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can u do this on third gens too, i get dead pedal every now and then anyway i got to drive my truck today for the first time since doing the adjustment. it seems to be a little smoother going down the highway, but the one thing that kinda bummed me out was that there was a major lack of smoke. i had a guy on a motor cycle riding my arse so i got on the go pedal and looked in my mirror, and no big cloud of black smoke (not that it was big before but good enough to give people a warning) it just blew kida a greyish-brown smoke instead. oh well!! |
Hey, guroo987, I've got the same procedure in "Word" format. If someone would like to post it somewhere, I'd be happy to send it to a moderator. Let me know if anyone needs it!
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I followed Spooky's lead here on this and tried it out. For those of you paranoid about doing, it is a completely simple thing to do once you get in there and see it all.
All I can say is WOW, WHAT A DIFFERENCE. I used to have to back out of the pedal cause my EGT's would climb to high when I got on it. Not anymore. I used to back out of it at around 950 degrees on the guage. This would only happen when I was layin on the pedal but now I can't make it go over around 700 degrees and that's keepin my foot in it the whole way. My normal operating temp went from 650 to just under 600 on the highway. My intial Voltmeter reading was .45v, the tag on the sensor showed it was supposed to be .65v. My readin once it was done and all put back together is .648 so I'm right there on it. I also did the APPS reset procedure when it was all done. Don't know if it was needed or not but I did it anyway. Deffinately a half hour well spent. |
Just a Q. it says to turn the truck off but it does not say to turn the key back to the on position to calibrate back to what the apps bracket says, so after I get my reading witch was 0.420 and the bracket said 0.520 do I have the key on or off when trying to get back to 0.520? Sorry if I confused anyone.
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I wasn't smart enough to even notice the difference that you caught there in the key location, I just followed it step by step so I must have done it with the key off. If you probe it with the key off and get any reading that means the wire is always hot at that location and it wouldn't matter.
I would also suggest using a straight pin to probe the wire with attached to alligator clips on your voltmeter. Much smaller hole in the insulation. |
spec was .6 it was at .44, got it to .61 and HOLY CRAP! there is a major differance it waset the best night to test since it was a slight drizzel (which started right as i finished woot woot) but i noticed at least a 400 degree drop in the egt's now weather that was a lack of tracion or if it was accurate i jsut about pooped my self. i also got a lil over 38 psi at 7200 feet elevation muhahahaha, im used to seeing my 1500 pyro gauge climb just as fast if not faster than my boost gauge but now it goes up slower alot slower (ive had the needel peeged and its taken about a second or so to come back down. needless to say im very happy with the results =D
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Hopefully this got yer other problems fixxed up to. Don't forget to update your help thread if it worked for the next poor victim of the same symptoms.
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so i deceided to recalibrate the apps.
i just tried this and it worked. i had played with my old apps that i replaced 2 years ago. it had a random revving problem. wich didnt work. then i came across this thread. while i obviously didnt fix both. it did work for the new one. my apps tested at .490 volts. now .531 sticker said .534:rocking: |
where the pics at .lol
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You guys are confusing me,how do I know if the Apps needs reset or not,my truck runs good,but I have had a fairly massive drop in MPG,I'm getting about 15mpg now,and I used to get 21mpg.
I have not noticed anything wrong with my EGT's,they might be a little warmer than before,but not too bad. |
You got nothin to lose by tryin it. It doesn't cost a dime, takes about 1/2 an hour and doesn't put any parts at risk as long as you follow the directions.
If you have any loss of power, loss of MPG, higher EGT's, dead pedal or many more symptoms it can be attributed to this. Over time this sensor just works it's way out of adjustment and needs to be reset. |
This can also cause Surge Issues if your APPS is out of spec.
Luke |
Just did mine; APPS states .525 and mine was at .417.
We'll see how it goes. |
I would like to do this but just installed a DDt noise filter and I tapped the orange/blue wire on C1. Would this effect my innitial reading?
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Nope
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I notice a difference! Truck is definitely more solid! But wait...maybe that's because I filled up my tires a little more.....:choochoo:
---AutoMerged DoublePost--- But seriously....after I did it, the CEL came on. I drove it for about 5 min to the carwash, wasked the truck, and when I started it back up, the CEL did not come back on. It does seem to shift a little better, and the unlock/lock problem (in another thread) did not happen last night. I'll see again tonight.... |
I need to check mine
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So Do I
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I just did this adjustment and all I can say is what a difference. Mine was at .35 and sticker said .559. I set it at .56 and now I can actually drive with my adrenaline turned up past 3 on any tune. Before it was hard to normal drive on any setting above 3. Even the torque tune is so much better. I also notice with the adrenaline on the higher settings my turbo seems to come to life in a hurry. I highly recommend this to anyone, well worth the time:U:
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Do I need to have it set at the stock idle. I've had a rough idle so I turned my idle up to about 950 and it goes away. Maybe this will fix it. What should I have the idle at.
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Originally Posted by luke46
(Post 395416)
Do I need to have it set at the stock idle. I've had a rough idle so I turned my idle up to about 950 and it goes away. Maybe this will fix it. What should I have the idle at.
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what I was saying was since I have the idle set high will it be a different voltage do I need to turn the idle to normal to get the correct voltage. I can't remember what it was supposed to be set at. thanks
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Did mine today. Spec was .504 and it was reading .41 so I adjusted it to .532
Havent had a chance to take it for a test drive. |
So when I take my 1st reading at the orange/blue wire from C1 and than get my 2nd reading at the APPS wire can I rotate the APPS as needed and then re-check the wire out of C1 with everything apart and the key on, or do you have to put it all back together and try again if you adjusted it too much or too little?
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Just get your voltage reading from the orange wire with the blue tracer (Pen #23). Keep your volt meter connected and rotate the APPS until you get the correct voltage and then tighten the screws to the apps. As you tighten the screws keep a check on the voltage.
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Originally Posted by luke46
(Post 395718)
what I was saying was since I have the idle set high will it be a different voltage do I need to turn the idle to normal to get the correct voltage. I can't remember what it was supposed to be set at. thanks
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I would think that the idle would affect it IF it is controlled by the APPS (manual hi idle whereas the high idle is possible by physical pressure on the APPS). If it is electronically controlled, then I don't think so.
My truck does run smoother since I did it.... |
idle speed
So what does y'alls truck idle at normally
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The 5 spd does have a different idle spped than the auto I think.
My auto idles at 820-830. |
Originally Posted by Marine
(Post 396243)
I would think that the idle would affect it IF it is controlled by the APPS (manual hi idle whereas the high idle is possible by physical pressure on the APPS). If it is electronically controlled, then I don't think so.
My truck does run smoother since I did it.... My auto Idles right at 800rpm :U: |
ok thanks fellas I am doing this tomorrow it is storming like crazy and I got my mud bogger burried up to the frame lol got a tractor coming to tow it out. Can't wait to do this
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20-35 minute job :U:
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my 5spd idles bout 700-750 or so
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Originally Posted by luke46
(Post 396523)
ok thanks fellas I am doing this tomorrow it is storming like crazy and I got my mud bogger burried up to the frame lol got a tractor coming to tow it out. Can't wait to do this
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Originally Posted by luke46
(Post 396523)
ok thanks fellas I am doing this tomorrow it is storming like crazy and I got my mud bogger burried up to the frame lol got a tractor coming to tow it out. Can't wait to do this
Where is the PICs?!?! |
I noticed that my throttle has a little more response and my cruising EGT's are down a bit. I still get some surge when running the TQ Tune and I lug the truck.
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