Adjusted APPS, I Was Bored
#1
04-01-2007, 09:14 PM
Adjusted APPS, I Was Bored
well i got bored today and decided to see if my apps was in need of adjustment. i have not had any problems with my truck, no dead pedal, nothin, but checked it anyway. it was over 1.2 volts off 
so i took out my volt meter and adjusted it to within .02 volts. i have not driven the truck yet to see if there is any differance, but it was definetaly out o adjustment. will let ya know if it made any differance or not tomorrow. maybe next time i get bored i will adjust the valves 
so i took out my volt meter and adjusted it to within .02 volts. i have not driven the truck yet to see if there is any differance, but it was definetaly out o adjustment. will let ya know if it made any differance or not tomorrow. maybe next time i get bored i will adjust the valves
The following 2 users liked this post by guroo987:
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#3
04-02-2007, 09:39 PM
sure, here it is from the "other site"
This is different than resetting it. I did it to mine today and it made a nice difference. Boost comes up faster and smoke is down. You have to measure the voltage that the APPS is putting out then compare that to the voltage that it's supposed to be set at. For example. My apps was putting out .450 volts and it was supposed to be putting out .584 volts. I went and adjusted it and now I'm putting out .580 volts. It's not a major difference but it is nice. I've only put maybe 5 miles on it so far but come wednesday I'll be doing 500 miles a week so I'll give yall a better idea on how it drives.
Instructions:
Tools: Digital Volt Meter, T-20 Torx bit, #1 phillips, 10mm socket
With the key on, engine off you need to probe the APPS wire to see where the voltage is currently set at.
The best location to probe the wire is on the PCM (Power Control Module) which is located on the passenger firewall behind the air intake.
* You want the C1 connector, this is the connector closest to the engine
* You want the orange wire with a dark blue tracer which is pin #23
* Voltage should be somewhere around 0.5 volts,
* At this point the voltage reading does not matter, it just has to be accurately written down for later reference
TURN THE IGNITION OFF ON THE TRUCK
Remove the black plastic cover off of your APPS. There are two plastic screws. One on the top and one on the front facing the radiator. It takes a little prying to pull it off.
Undo the 6-10mm bolts that hold the bracketru in place but DO NOT REMOVE THE CABLES!!
You will notice the APPS is on the back of the bracketry that you just removed, it is held in place by 2-T20 torx bit screws. These screws have a little bit of locktite on them so make sure you have a good socket and gently give a little tap with a hammer before attempting to loosen. Be very careful because these screws strip VERY easily and you only get one shot at them (VERY VERY VERY IMPORTANT; They are VERY tight).
On the APPS you will find a white tag that gives you the information on what the APPS voltage should be.
* After loosening the screws (do not remove) you can rotate the APPS clockwise or counter clockwise to get the adjustment (towards the front of the truck increases voltage and towards the rear of the truck decreases voltage)
* The reading you took at the beginning of the process on pin #23 should match the white tag on your APPS. If it doesn't the adjust accordingly.
Instructions:
Tools: Digital Volt Meter, T-20 Torx bit, #1 phillips, 10mm socket
With the key on, engine off you need to probe the APPS wire to see where the voltage is currently set at.
The best location to probe the wire is on the PCM (Power Control Module) which is located on the passenger firewall behind the air intake.
* You want the C1 connector, this is the connector closest to the engine
* You want the orange wire with a dark blue tracer which is pin #23
* Voltage should be somewhere around 0.5 volts,
* At this point the voltage reading does not matter, it just has to be accurately written down for later reference
TURN THE IGNITION OFF ON THE TRUCK
Remove the black plastic cover off of your APPS. There are two plastic screws. One on the top and one on the front facing the radiator. It takes a little prying to pull it off.
Undo the 6-10mm bolts that hold the bracketru in place but DO NOT REMOVE THE CABLES!!
You will notice the APPS is on the back of the bracketry that you just removed, it is held in place by 2-T20 torx bit screws. These screws have a little bit of locktite on them so make sure you have a good socket and gently give a little tap with a hammer before attempting to loosen. Be very careful because these screws strip VERY easily and you only get one shot at them (VERY VERY VERY IMPORTANT; They are VERY tight).
On the APPS you will find a white tag that gives you the information on what the APPS voltage should be.
* After loosening the screws (do not remove) you can rotate the APPS clockwise or counter clockwise to get the adjustment (towards the front of the truck increases voltage and towards the rear of the truck decreases voltage)
* The reading you took at the beginning of the process on pin #23 should match the white tag on your APPS. If it doesn't the adjust accordingly.
The following 9 users liked this post by guroo987:
Alligator Vinny (01-06-2011),
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and 4 others liked this post.
#5
04-04-2007, 09:42 PM
can u do this on third gens too, i get dead pedal every now and then
anyway i got to drive my truck today for the first time since doing the adjustment. it seems to be a little smoother going down the highway, but the one thing that kinda bummed me out was that there was a major lack of smoke. i had a guy on a motor cycle riding my **** so i got on the go pedal and looked in my mirror, and no big cloud of black smoke (not that it was big before but good enough to give people a warning) it just blew kida a greyish-brown smoke instead. oh well!!
#7
06-09-2007, 09:34 PM
I followed Spooky's lead here on this and tried it out. For those of you paranoid about doing, it is a completely simple thing to do once you get in there and see it all.
All I can say is WOW, WHAT A DIFFERENCE. I used to have to back out of the pedal cause my EGT's would climb to high when I got on it. Not anymore. I used to back out of it at around 950 degrees on the guage. This would only happen when I was layin on the pedal but now I can't make it go over around 700 degrees and that's keepin my foot in it the whole way. My normal operating temp went from 650 to just under 600 on the highway.
My intial Voltmeter reading was .45v, the tag on the sensor showed it was supposed to be .65v. My readin once it was done and all put back together is .648 so I'm right there on it. I also did the APPS reset procedure when it was all done. Don't know if it was needed or not but I did it anyway.
Deffinately a half hour well spent.
All I can say is WOW, WHAT A DIFFERENCE. I used to have to back out of the pedal cause my EGT's would climb to high when I got on it. Not anymore. I used to back out of it at around 950 degrees on the guage. This would only happen when I was layin on the pedal but now I can't make it go over around 700 degrees and that's keepin my foot in it the whole way. My normal operating temp went from 650 to just under 600 on the highway.
My intial Voltmeter reading was .45v, the tag on the sensor showed it was supposed to be .65v. My readin once it was done and all put back together is .648 so I'm right there on it. I also did the APPS reset procedure when it was all done. Don't know if it was needed or not but I did it anyway.
Deffinately a half hour well spent.
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#8
10-22-2007, 07:11 PM
Diesel Fan
Just a Q. it says to turn the truck off but it does not say to turn the key back to the on position to calibrate back to what the apps bracket says, so after I get my reading witch was 0.420 and the bracket said 0.520 do I have the key on or off when trying to get back to 0.520? Sorry if I confused anyone.
#9
10-23-2007, 02:23 AM
I wasn't smart enough to even notice the difference that you caught there in the key location, I just followed it step by step so I must have done it with the key off. If you probe it with the key off and get any reading that means the wire is always hot at that location and it wouldn't matter.
I would also suggest using a straight pin to probe the wire with attached to alligator clips on your voltmeter. Much smaller hole in the insulation.
I would also suggest using a straight pin to probe the wire with attached to alligator clips on your voltmeter. Much smaller hole in the insulation.
#10
10-30-2007, 08:25 PM
spec was .6 it was at .44, got it to .61 and HOLY CRAP! there is a major differance it waset the best night to test since it was a slight drizzel (which started right as i finished woot woot) but i noticed at least a 400 degree drop in the egt's now weather that was a lack of tracion or if it was accurate i jsut about pooped my self. i also got a lil over 38 psi at 7200 feet elevation muhahahaha, im used to seeing my 1500 pyro gauge climb just as fast if not faster than my boost gauge but now it goes up slower alot slower (ive had the needel peeged and its taken about a second or so to come back down. needless to say im very happy with the results =D
Last edited by Lostnwalmart; 10-30-2007 at 09:00 PM.
