I just adjusted mine last night... it was .42v when checked, and the tag stated .562v. I adjusted it to .560 and it seems to be a little snappier on the throttle... havent driven it yet to check for a mpg difference.

What unit is the TQ Tune for?

The torque tune is for the adrenaline :U:

I'll have to try it.

For some reason on my truck the ADRCOMP3 tune hits harder than the TQ Tune.

I have to say this torque tune is now the greatest thing for towing my work trailer. What a world of difference. I like it better than the adr 3000 tune. It doesn't hit as hard when I turn it up. But it pull's like a Bad.... Boy:w2:

I am so glad I did the APPS adjustment. Fixed the little surging issue as well. On a side note, I loaded the ADRCOMP3 and it smokes less than the ADR2022F did. I am thinking it had something to do with the APPS. I will try the TQ TUNE next.

I really want to do this to my truck due to some driving issues, but I must be mildly retarded because I can't find the screws for the plastic case, and I don't have a volt-meter, but I do believe I can borrow one. My question is does anyone have any pictures of this, or could somebody in my area that has done this help me adjust this? I live in the south east corner of Licking County, just outside of Brownsville. I would go to where they are to do this, and give them something for their time. Thanks for any help.

As far as the voltmeter to do this it can be had for a few dollars from most any store that sells basic tools. Don't need a fancy one by any means.

And the plastic case your referring to I assume is the little cheap throttle cover thing. If so I just ripped it off and haven't had it on the truck in years. It was just in the way and serves no purpose except for looks. With it gone i can work the throttle cable from under the hood when I'm workin on the truck. Not gonna go so far as to tell you that you should do this, just tellin ya what I did with it.

Thank You, Thank You, Thank You
 

Thanks for this info. It fixed some serious problems and severel issues I didn't even know I had. The directions were very complete, accurate and easy to follow. I am very plesed with the outcome! After reading you're post, I fixed the problem in 30 minutes that I have been chasing for many months.:jump::jump::tu:

I have 110 hp injectors and a comp box, bla, bla,bla. Before I had to back down the fueling level and give it throttle slow. Now I can run the comp box all the way up and the truck drives smoother than ever before and respondes to the throttle without hesitation, it just shreds the rear tires. :choochoo:
Greatfully,
Bad Dad

Interesting, I may have to give this a shot. See what difference it actually makes. Give it a shot on the dyno after I get my vacuum pump fixed, see if it changes power at all.
Sean

did this for the second time...volatge was at .348 and supposed to be at .469 ... has worked both times. anybody with one of these should try this

I should do this again; It was off last time I did it so it probably is again.

All Better Now
 

Sean,
Per our conversation, I should explain that the truck has run strong ever since the 110 hp injectors, intake, exhaust and edge comp. box install, but over the last couple of years it became more difficult to add fueling with the comp box. I assumed the comp box was going bad. Several months ago I started pulling a 12000 lb. RV trailer and couldn’t use the comp box at all without the truck bucking and jerking under any load. It has had an occasional “check engine” light that has became more frequent of late.:moon: I disconnected the comp box to get a clear diagnosis and found the “P0122” code (low APPS input). The local shop told me to try adding an auxiliary ground to the VP44 loom (black w/ brown tracer). That turned the P0122 light on every time I “cleared codes” and fired the engine. :argh:

When I read the APPS adjusting procedure that gurroo987 posted it made sense and I tried it. My APPS called for .559 vdc and was set at .368 vdc. I got it to .561 and called it good. It’s not the same truck! It pulls smooth with all the fueling up, even on max setting #5, from as low as 1000 rpm (haven’t tried lower rpm). The torque curve starts lower with out as much turbo lag. It really cut down on the smoke. Before I could fill a large intersection with soot if I put full throttle to it before the turbo could spool up, but now it leaves a light gray cloud with blue tire smoke (I may miss that smoke option:tttt:). The truck has never been so well mannered and easy to drive. It seems to me that this will make life easier for the 24 valve motor and likely will cut fuel consumption. I will be checking the orange w/blue wire for vdc from time to time since its so easy to do and does appears to be a regular problem, even if its not out far enough to throw a code. I recommend this procedure for any one who has a digital volt meter with a “low” volt scale.

Sean, it still amazes me that I was away from home today visiting Santa Rosa and stopped into “TOTAL PERFORMANCE DIESEL” and the guy I was talking to was you. Thanks for the tour of the shop and more importantly, the projects! You guys have a great facility, even a dyno! Good luck this weekend at infineon raceway and the “Pinks” TV show taping. Nice web-site too.:c:

Thanks Everyone
Bad Dad

1998.5 24 valve, intake, exhaust, edge comp box, 110 hp injectors and “holley” blue pump through the stock lift pump.

I know, it is a crazy small world sometimes, who would've thought that would happen without planning. It was nice meeting you, and definitely drop by when you are in town again. Also, I forgot to mention while you were in today, we will be hosting a dyno day on Saturday Oct. 30th. There is thread with a flyer in the events section about it. The thread says oct. 9th but we rescheduled because of some pulls and races that weekend, if you can make it, we'd love to see you there.
Sean

i read this the other morning and thought what the hell borrowed a voltmeter did it it called for .518 and it was at .664 and i got it to .516 havent driven it enough yet to tell for sure but just around town it seems smoother in acceleration and less smoke thanks for the write up on how to do this.

Here's a tip if you do this.
You know where you make the hole in the wire for the voltmeter probe? Dab a little silicone on it so it seals up the hole when you are done and if you wrap a bit of electrical tape on it, it should pull the silicone out the next time you need to do the adjustment.

Sup all,

I did the apps reset while I lived in Ft Lauderdale. Made a huge difference with my ride. However it seemed that it did not last long, maybe a year and I noticed it started acting funny again on the drive to Maryland. I have 290k on the clock and halfway up to Maryland got tired of the driving issues and woke up early while at the hotel and went out and adjusted it before the wife was ready for breakfest. Very easy to do and made the remianing trip smooth. When I got here, I broke down and purchased a TIMBO Apps. It was a very simple install and over the last eight months have made several trips to Roanoke VA and Knoxville TN with no issues like before. So I kinda feel like there is only so much adjusting that can be done before it has to be replaced. But it is amazing that such a smal peice can cause so many issues.
oudive

Mine is starting to surge quite a bit again; I will have to do this soon. The one from TIMBO might be an option for me down the road...

Yeah, they definitely have a limited life span just like any other part. But it is nice that adjusting them is an option at all. It sure beats buying a new one. One more question though. Is there any reason not to disconnect the plug from the PCM and test the pin itself, that way the wire doesn't have to be punctured? The other thing I would consider would be t-tapping the wire and then probing the tap. Then just leave it connected for future use. On other circuits that I use to check voltage and tune, I have added a dedicated test lead too it so I don't have to mess with it much each time.
Sean

I don't see why a test lead could not be made. Location would be one limiting factor, though.

Sup,

I almost dropped the phone when the dealer gave me the price of the apps. I am glad that I pulled the trigger on the TIMBO, quick shipping and easy to follow instructions. The test lead is a pretty good idea, I think I would be testing it everytime I opened the hood though....LOL.

oudive

I just did mine again today. It was supposed to be .525, but was at .412. Haven't driven yet but it made a difference last time.

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I have my CEL on now; I'll have to look at that and reset it.

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So I floored the go pedal a couple times slowly, shut the key off, re-started and the CEL went off.