timing adjustment 12 valve - Page 3 - Diesel Bombers



94-98 12V Cummins 5.9L P7100 Tech Talk '94-'98 5.9L Cummins 12-Valve P-9100 Tech Articles

 
 
 
 
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  #21  
Old 06-17-2009, 07:31 PM
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Keep in mind when doing the timing - its also a very good time to tab your Killer Dowel Pin (KDP), since you have the timing cover off already.
you don't have to take the timing cover off for timing ... but it is a great idea to tab the kdp
  #22  
Old 06-17-2009, 08:09 PM
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wat exactly is in setting the timing? any one got pics?
  #23  
Old 06-17-2009, 08:56 PM
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you don't have to take the timing cover off for timing ... but it is a great idea to tab the kdp
When we did my truck - did it all at once.
  #24  
Old 06-17-2009, 08:57 PM
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wat exactly is in setting the timing? any one got pics?
TSB 18-10-94 Rev. A
  #25  
Old 06-18-2009, 04:26 PM
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Bad idea...heard trucks at 20+ degrees they lope bad and I dont see how they even get them started.
There's quite a few pulling trucks that are 30+. It was more of an "It's not up to me what you do, its not my truck" sort of comment. I'm a fan of people doing all the research they can and try and sort out the BS themselves before jumping in with both feet or you can just take it to a professional and take all the worry out of it.
  #26  
Old 06-18-2009, 05:48 PM
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if you adjust the timing should you get a shift kit or upgraded VB? and im a newbie still and whats a kdp?
  #27  
Old 06-18-2009, 06:07 PM
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i dont think you need to but if you have a auto and your goin to bomb it and not goin to get a beefed up trani a valve body and tc would be a good start. thats what im workin on . the kdp all i no is its in the front of the motor that can rattle loose fall in to some gears and really jack it up.
  #28  
Old 06-18-2009, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by BigDiesel359 View Post
There's quite a few pulling trucks that are 30+. It was more of an "It's not up to me what you do, its not my truck" sort of comment. I'm a fan of people doing all the research they can and try and sort out the BS themselves before jumping in with both feet or you can just take it to a professional and take all the worry out of it.


) to my knowledge hes not building a pulling truck - pulling or full race diesels are set up way different than a souped up street truck (which is what hes asking about).

2) 16 degrees is a very good place to start. There is no real need to ever go past 18 degrees on a street truck - it will just cause problems if you go much past that. Why tell someone "you can run 30 degrees if you like" if you know full well their engine is not build for it, and they have a stock head gasket etc. Doing so is giving inaccurate & poor advice - which is not what most people are here for.

JMO FWIW

Last edited by Dr. Evil; 06-19-2009 at 02:15 PM.
  #29  
Old 06-18-2009, 07:29 PM
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) to my knowledge hes not building a pulling truck - pulling or full race diesels are set up way different than a souped up street truck (which is what hes asking about).

2) 16 degrees is a very good place to start. There is no real need to ever go past 18 degrees on a street truck - it will just cause problems if you go much past that. Why tell someone "you can run 30 degrees if you like" if you know full well their engine is not build for it, and they have a stock head gasket etc. Doing so is giving inaccurate & poor advice - which is not what most people are here for.
this is very true its all in your set up I run 22.5* with a .020 over hg an she starts fine and runs great but I would not have this set up for a DD
  #30  
Old 06-18-2009, 10:07 PM
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Im running 50 psi and 19* but know the risks and im ready to pull the head any given day. I have studs but there on a shelf in the box. When I put them in im going to try 22* I dont pull much ever and play a lot. When winter comes ill go back to 18*

I know what your saying bigdiesel359. NO matter how many times you tell someone or how much info is there some just have to learn on there own. After awhile they will learn.
 
 
 

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