89-93 12V Cummins Tech Talk '89-'93 5.9L 12 Valve Cummins VE Engine Tech Articles

Getting Full Throttle Out of Your VE Pump

 
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 11:52 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by RSWORDS
You can lower the idle by grinding more off, if yuo want to raise the idle... Well break out the welder!

Also jason as Logan said above remove teh high idle screw (looks just like the idle screw except on drivers side of the pump. Just take it out and toss it in the garbage!
only screw i had in mine was the fuel screw....the idle and speed screws were taken out...hopefully my truck will be running alot better with the fresh injection and lift pumps and filter.....Kurt should be done with it.....
 
Old May 3, 2009 | 01:12 AM
  #12  
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If you grind too much off you could probably put the idle screw back in and put a nut,a washer or two and another locking nut to hold the washers on there.
 
Old May 3, 2009 | 10:29 AM
  #13  
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Very True!
 
Old Sep 9, 2009 | 07:30 PM
  #14  
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or couldnt you tighten up the linkage to make it idle higher
 
Old Sep 19, 2009 | 07:09 PM
  #15  
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You could but that messes with he full travel again.
 
Old Oct 13, 2009 | 11:51 PM
  #16  
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actually bobby; today i relocated my idle adjustment to the front side of the throttle lever and decided to index my throttle while i was at it; i believe you jumped two teeth; since i relocated my idle adjust i just went ahead and trimmed the whole back side of the lever off. i jumped one tooth and left my linkage where it was at factory; started the truck up and it was around 1500 rpm and full sweep of the throttle would make the lever hit the AFC housing, jump it another tooth (i never started it at this setting) but the throttle lever would actually bottom out internally as it was clearing the AFC housing by 1/8 to a 1/4 inch. i opted for a one notch adjust seeing as i dont have any major fuel mods or the 366 spring; i figure an extra notch will come in due time. also need a better boost gauge. no idea how hard i'm pushing the H!C anymore... before it looked like it pegged the gauge but now the needle slams the stop something fierce... gotta be over 30 psi now plus timing

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either way man; thanks for the post otherwise idk if i'd feel ballsy enough to do this mod so far everything i've done to this truck fuel wise has been free and it keep sgetting closer and closer to the driveability of a p-pump truck. i dont even have to roll into the throttle anymore to maintain speed goin up a hill... i hate being broke the 366 and an airdog would be mighty sweet
 

Last edited by tower_ofpower; Oct 14, 2009 at 12:05 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old Oct 14, 2009 | 04:10 PM
  #17  
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if its hitting you need to take more off!
 
Old Oct 14, 2009 | 10:27 PM
  #18  
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i believe it's hitting internally... say with a one notch index i'm able to sweep 110* (bs numbers) with the 2 notch index the pump bottoms out internally and you only get 90* (bs number) is the throttle shaft hitting the AFC lever and this where grinding the AFC lever comes to play?

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Originally Posted by RSWORDS
if its hitting you need to take more off!
i clear everything with 1/16th clearance at the least; i'll get a pic of the new throttle set-up
 

Last edited by tower_ofpower; Oct 14, 2009 at 10:27 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old Oct 15, 2009 | 12:50 AM
  #19  
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i see in dp magazine how they put a washer on the throttle cable to get full throttle. does that help any?
 
Old Oct 15, 2009 | 01:18 AM
  #20  
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sure does; there's alot of extra slack in the cable and the pedal sits a little low (close to the floorboard) if you pull the cable out and the throttle pedal up thats all your extra slack. i personally stacked washers behind the factory retainer; its abit heavy and causes the cable to droop; but you really dont notice. if i remember correctly your talking about the copper washer they crimp over the wire end? that works too
 



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