Originally Posted by dirty diesels
what you need to do is turn injector pump up maybe a turn and a half i promise it will help my truck had a loss in power but after i did that it ran like a champ i turned my injector pump up 3 turns and i could really tell the difference thats if you can put up with the black smoke hope i helped any other questions feel free to ask
Yeah, that ought to Fry some Heavy Metal.
Take it from the top. The engine is an air pump. You need to think of it as such. It's all about flow. If you're looking for power, then the best place to start is from the tail pipe and work forward straightening and enlarging and un-restricting flow until you're blowing cold air ( figuratively ) straight through the engine. The best thing you can do for a high miler is to help it run cool and that's flow the air not turn up the heat. Yeah you need fuel to heat the air to make the piston pressure to turn the crank, to spin the tires, but then you have to move that hot air out of the engine or you will soon melt things. Diesels are always wide open. They pump mass quantities of air. That keeps them cool. That makes them live longer. Then make sure you have an exhaust pyrometer installed as close to the inlet of the Turbine or alternately at the #8 outlet in the exhaust manifold. Only then is it safe to crank the pump up. Black smoke may look cool to the High School Girls but it's anything but cool to your pistons and valves.
As far as the Injectors and the return lines are concerned, if they are painted gray they are most likely the stockers. The injectors will wear out and lose their ability to atomize fuel or shut off quickly to avoid dripping. Only atomized fuel will burn. The rest will run down the cylinder wall and dilute your oil,or blow out your tail pipe as smoke. The Stanadyne DB-2 Injection pump is a very sturdy pump. Yours may still be good. I have run them for 300 Kilo miles without a problem. They are trashed by dirt and water in the fuel. Lately they took our Sulfur away so it is imperative to use a fuel conditioner like Stanadyne's Performance Formula at each fill up. Don't believe the "ATF works" stories. I do use ATF if I run out of SPF on the road but not as the rule. Ok back to the Injectors. There are several "codes" stamped on the side of the injectors. I can't tell you what they all mean except they are matched up to the pump. The aforementioned "G" code injectors are to match a Stanadyne DB-2 5070 or (5069 if you had an automatic) for a Turbo'd 92.5-94.5 IDI. Why not just use the injectors? Because the pump isn't matched. The Turbo IP puts out a slightly higher pressure to ensure atomization in a denser air mass. If you add 7 lbs boost the pressure goes from the normal 14.7 psi at sea level to 21 or so, so the density is in theory, increased by 50% making it harder for a pump to throw molecules of oil though it. Anyways, the Turbo "G" code Injector is set to "pop-off" at a higher pressure and also shut off at a correspondingly higher pressure. With a non-turbo spec pump you would be no better off than with the correct injectors matched to your pump. Having said that there are emmisions issues with different and injectors and pumps as well. You may want "BB" or "D" code injectors as opposed to the "E" code spec'd for your engine ( if it's N/A ) You can call somebody like Midwest Fuel Injection Diesel performance parts and accessories. Diesel injectors, pumps, filters, kits, additive, gauges and apparel.
or J & H Diesel J & H Diesel Home Page
for a set of injectors and a return line kit and ask them at that time. They are both good shops. Get them to send you a set of rubber seals for the Fuel Filter lines as well just for spares. I think it's a 3/8" on the header inlet and 5/16's on the line to the pump. Personally, for the return lines I use the German braided cloth over rubber 6mm fuel hose I get at the Foreign auto supply house for VW's and reuse my old clamps and Tee's and just buy Viton O-rings, but the return line kit is a good deal at less than $33. It comes with the correct Tee's and O-rings, the clamps and fuel hose. You supply your own Vaseline to put them on with. If all else fails, look in the Yellow Pages or what-have-you and find the International Truck Dealer near you and tell them what you are looking for. They built it.
Then call ATS for an Aurora 2000 turbo kit. Your IDI will thank you, and live another 100 Kilo miles or more.