need help with DPF delete project
A cab and chassis does not have o2 sensors so no need for bungs.
James
RSD
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I agree pics are woth a thoudand words.
James
RSD
James
RSD
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James
RSD
Last edited by Rollin Smoke Diesel; Mar 29, 2009 at 01:44 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I gave up and sent the kit back since the return policy was 10 days. The issue is the O2 sensors do not match the placement nor the size on the straight pipe.
James, you have already seen this.
This is my first post trying to add a photo. I don't know if I'm doing it right.
James, you have already seen this.
This is my first post trying to add a photo. I don't know if I'm doing it right.
Now that I am revisiting this project and not in a panic to make it work before the "10 day return policy" expires, are the O2 sensors the two 6 pin connectors that are identified in my thumbnail? If so what are the two stainless steel tubes that are screwed into the DPF, and what do you do with them after the delete? James, if you are going to sell these things, it would be a good idea to make the instructions idiot proof!!!
on mine i took the tubes all the way off their was no need for them but i have a gen 1 tho so yours may be different if yours is a gen 2 and if your not running a programmer you just unplug the harness where the tubes go up in by the tranny.
those tubes sense the diferential pressure through the DPF to tell how well its working and % full. it, along with the three temperature sensors are what sends your truck into regen. i dont know if you have a fooler, but i cut the tubes at the rubber by the tranny and capped them.
if you dont have a fooler and a gen 2, your truck might holler and throw a code or two. dpf-r makes a code kit for it that is 5 plugs and takes 2 minutes. 3 temperature emulators, 1 dpf d/p detector, and one that plugs in by the exhaust manifold.
if you dont have a fooler and a gen 2, your truck might holler and throw a code or two. dpf-r makes a code kit for it that is 5 plugs and takes 2 minutes. 3 temperature emulators, 1 dpf d/p detector, and one that plugs in by the exhaust manifold.
on my kit witch worked great took everything off put o2s back in sims in the temp sensors and a sim for the press diff sensor but i have a pro-flo kit everything worked great and they have a code free kit now also
Make your own sims plug 330ohm 1/2watt resistors in each of the pyro connectors and the pressure sensor takes 2 a 390ohm and a 110ohm both are 1/2 watt will try to post pic of pressure sensor resistors soon
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Heres how to do pressure sensor
[IMG]
[/IMG]
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Heres how to do pressure sensor
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Last edited by 2ndDodge; Apr 6, 2009 at 04:54 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Thanks to everyone for the advise. I think I now know how to do this. I thought all you had to do was replace everything with new pipe and plug in some connectors. I'm in contact with the vendor now to re-order the kit. I'm not brave enough to do a home made. Plus, I'm no good at aluminum without a TIG set up. And, I don't have one.
I am going with the stage 2 again. First, I will remove the DPF and if everything goes well I will replace the down pipe at a later date. If I remove the DPF and and not the down pipe, with a stage 2 kit will there be problems? Also, what is the better material to fab the EGR plates out of? Is mild steel O.K.? 16 ga. or 1/8? Or,does it have to be hardened steel? Thanks again to everyone for all of your help.
I am going with the stage 2 again. First, I will remove the DPF and if everything goes well I will replace the down pipe at a later date. If I remove the DPF and and not the down pipe, with a stage 2 kit will there be problems? Also, what is the better material to fab the EGR plates out of? Is mild steel O.K.? 16 ga. or 1/8? Or,does it have to be hardened steel? Thanks again to everyone for all of your help.
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