6.0L Performance Discussion of 6.0 Liter Ford Powerstroke Turbo Diesels Related To Performance And Longevity

Yellow Jacket build thread.

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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 10:03 PM
  #31  
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Well, had my first no start condition today. Knew it was coming. Well, I'm gonna order the updated stc fitting kit, dummy plugs, and stand pipes. should I go on and order this updates turbo oil drain pipe, shipping wont go up if I do and its just a $30 part. Any need for it?

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Oh, almost forgot pics.
homemade egr delete




My "boom pipe". stock down pipe with 5 inch pipe 4 ft long. I've already changed it. I'll post picks later. I will run the 5 inch all the way up to down pipe where it turns and goes under the truck. I'm wanting either a 6 or 7 inch tip around 20 inchs long.

It really woke the truck up. Right now I'm running super truck where it exits at a 45 degree with a 30 degree slash cut.
 

Last edited by Little Luke; Jun 27, 2011 at 10:04 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 10:56 PM
  #32  
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I would definitely get the turbo drain piece yes.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 01:23 AM
  #33  
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ok, parts are ordered and on the way. I made some progress tonight, turbo is out. wasn't bad with enough tools. more this weekend.


Oh, is there anything I could port and polish that would benifit me, even alittle. This is my first blown vehicle, So I'm not 100 percent on what you want for the best flow. I do alittle head work, but I'm not getting that deep. I'm thinking something with the intake manifold, intake elbow, or turbo.. just thinking, it will be tuesday at best before my parts are in, so I need to kill time.

Ad do I need new intake manifold gasket as well?
 
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 08:27 AM
  #34  
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Go ahead and pick up the intake manifold gaskets, you may not need them, but cheap enough that you should probably just have them in case.

Don't bother wasting time with port cleaning anything. The biggest area of restriction is the intake manifold, but to really open that up, it literally needs to be opened. Check out GoGo's setup. GoGoDiesel Stage 1 Intake Manifold w/ EGR Delete The only true performance intake manifold on the market for the 6.0L powerstroke. [GGD-6LSTG1] - $1,200.00 : Direct Injection Performance - GoGoDiesel.Com, Your Source For All Things Diesel!

The heads are also super restrictive on these motors, but for what you have for mods there is no justification in doing anything. On an N/A motor, porting helps tremendously, we're just stuffing air in with a turbo. Instead of wasting time/money on porting, it's quicker/easier to just slap some nitrous on, or put a bigger turbo to cram more air in.

My 2 cents.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 11:02 AM
  #35  
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ok, I'm not gonna screw with it then. I really dont like that intake elbow though, but it can be messed with after its all back together.......

Can anybody help me out here. I'm looking but coming up short handed and confused.
I need to know how to do the 58v hot mod, and where the the stand pipes and dummy plugs are, and how to get to them. I've got the intake off and I'm down to the hpop and I'm waiting on parts.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 07:41 AM
  #36  
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I have a PDF file of how to do the 58V mod yourself, but I'm having a heck of a time sourcing the parts to do it with. I have not been able to find them, or if I do, it's a minimum lot buy of something like 5000 parts. Send me your email via PM and I'll shoot you the PDF of the mod for the FICM.

As for the stand pipe and dummy plugs, I believe a picture was recently posted around here actually. PowerstrokeTech87 I think posted one, or if not I'm sure he can. You can always go here: DTS Articles - Coffee Table Books and find your coffee table book, they have almost everything you can imagine in them.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 10:58 PM
  #37  
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thanks those helped out alot.
I've only been able to work an hours a night, but I have the driver side finished, replace the stand pipe and the dummy plug. low and behold, the o rings on the dummy plug were blown in half. it kind of made me feel good to find an issue so it felt like I was acomplishing something.

I'm going to do the passenger side tommorrow. I have the fender well pulled out so I can get the valve cover off, but once I'm in there, is there enough clerance to replace the stand pipe???? it looks tight
 
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 02:34 PM
  #38  
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Always nice to have a sense of accomplishment on something like this! Glad ot hear it!

I'm not sure about the clearance issue, I'm sure if you do some searching you can find that answer though, you're not the first person to try and replace stand pipes and dummy plugs.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2011 | 06:47 PM
  #39  
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Ok, I'm done, and ol' yeller is running like a champ

Ok, Word of advise for anyone who is going to attemp to remove the passenger side valve cover, remove the fenderwell, you will have access to all the valve cover bolts. Next, remove the heat shield and cover to the condenser/ blower (not sure what else you would call it), and you will have plenty of space to remove the standpipe, dummy plug, and oil rail. you will also have enough space to put the new standpipe in after you remount the rail.

also, nothing is as much of a hope crusher as the time it takes to finally get it to restarted. It finally fired, ran alittle rough, but after a few minuted of idleing it smoothed out.

What i got done, 6.4 banjo bolts, upgraded fuel pressure regulator, cleaned the turbo, sinister coolant filter, my homade egr delete, zoodad mod, upgraded turbo drain pipe,
stc fitting, upgraded dummy plugs and stanpipes.

I had 4 blown orings, which I guess was enough to cause my hot, no start issue.

now I'm on to building my 4 inch down pipe, headache rack, new rear bumper, install my recon smoked cab lights, some kind of light bar. I'll post some picks to let yall tell me what you think of my designs. And I'm going to start looking for parts to do the hot 58v mod, now that I've got time.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 08:37 PM
  #40  
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looking good bud
 

Last edited by Oil Field Trash; Oct 11, 2011 at 08:41 PM.
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