Gauge Pods
#11
Fuel pressure should be around 55psi, + or - 5psi. 45psi and lower will damage injectors
Pyro, quick runs don't even look at it (like a sled pull, or drag racing), put a piece of tape over it, you'll scare yourself looking at it. For extended intervals, they say 1250 in short bursts, I try to stay around 1000 max when towing up hills and what not, but that's probably pretty conservative.
Oil and Coolant will be what they are, you shouldn't have issues with those, the main thing to watch is that they are never more than 15* apart from each other. That's the key.
Pyro, quick runs don't even look at it (like a sled pull, or drag racing), put a piece of tape over it, you'll scare yourself looking at it. For extended intervals, they say 1250 in short bursts, I try to stay around 1000 max when towing up hills and what not, but that's probably pretty conservative.
Oil and Coolant will be what they are, you shouldn't have issues with those, the main thing to watch is that they are never more than 15* apart from each other. That's the key.
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DieselPower84 (04-07-2011)
#13
Okay, since I have the gauges installed now I can see everything. All of them look okay except the fuel pressure. You said that the fuel pressure should be 55psi +/- 5 and no lower than 45psi. Well mine stays at 50psi all the time at normal driving. When I put it to the floor it drops to around 42psi. Is there anything I could/should do?
#14
Yep, Ford sells an upgraded FPR (fuel pressure regulator) kit. It will run about $70 or so from the Ford dealer. You can also just get the spring from International for about $15 if memory serves. I will dig up the P/N's for you. Hold on a minute...
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The Reg. Kit number is 3C3Z-9T517-AG and you get it form Ford (or here pretty cheap... Tousley Ford Parts Depot or here: www.partsguyed.com
The spring is located behind the small plate that the return line attaches to. This is probably one of the easiest repairs you can make... Take the four screws loose (they are T-27 torx screws), change pull the old spring out of the brass cup, put the new spring in and re-install the plate. When you are taking it loose, keep your thumb on the plate so the spring/cup doesn't pop out and also use your thumb to hold the plate up tight to the fuel bowl when re-installing, so the screws can be threaded in good. If you buy the whole kit (which I think is the only way you can get it from Ford), I would replace the brass cup while you are at it..
You can see the plate and return line here.
Page 30: Fuel Supply System
The idea behind this is they changed the fuel filter designs. The new filter that goes on the frame is extended and has an o-ring for a complete seal, supposed to not let anything through at all, even when it's getting plugged. This seems silly to me, since the secondary filter on top of the motor is there to catch this stuff but whatever. With the new filters, guys are noticing a drop in FP, so knowing what filters you have will help too. I am running the OLD style filters, with the NEW FPR kit. I can still drain my FP down with a good run on some tunes.
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The Reg. Kit number is 3C3Z-9T517-AG and you get it form Ford (or here pretty cheap... Tousley Ford Parts Depot or here: www.partsguyed.com
The spring is located behind the small plate that the return line attaches to. This is probably one of the easiest repairs you can make... Take the four screws loose (they are T-27 torx screws), change pull the old spring out of the brass cup, put the new spring in and re-install the plate. When you are taking it loose, keep your thumb on the plate so the spring/cup doesn't pop out and also use your thumb to hold the plate up tight to the fuel bowl when re-installing, so the screws can be threaded in good. If you buy the whole kit (which I think is the only way you can get it from Ford), I would replace the brass cup while you are at it..
You can see the plate and return line here.
Page 30: Fuel Supply System
The idea behind this is they changed the fuel filter designs. The new filter that goes on the frame is extended and has an o-ring for a complete seal, supposed to not let anything through at all, even when it's getting plugged. This seems silly to me, since the secondary filter on top of the motor is there to catch this stuff but whatever. With the new filters, guys are noticing a drop in FP, so knowing what filters you have will help too. I am running the OLD style filters, with the NEW FPR kit. I can still drain my FP down with a good run on some tunes.
Last edited by Mdub707; 04-28-2011 at 08:32 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#15
#16
#19
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DieselPower84 (05-03-2011)
#20
Ok sounds good. That was a mess the last time I did it.
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So how long does it take to bleed off the pressure after driving it or do I have the wrong idea from what you were saying?
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So how long does it take to bleed off the pressure after driving it or do I have the wrong idea from what you were saying?
Last edited by DieselPower84; 05-03-2011 at 12:29 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost