Yes, the intake manifold. Don't put it pre-turbo, you'll be eating turbos like crazy. Water droplets hitting an impeller spinning at 200k rpms is not good. It will destroy the turbo quickly. Post turbo, the intake elbow is the easiest.

Also, yes, get a check valve of some sort. I have a buddy who hooked one up without, and he had to constantly park facing up hill, otherwise he'd have water leaking into his engine. He went out to crank one morning and the engine had almost hydrolocked. Bent rods cost more than a check valve/switch.

 

Oh wow okay. ya i think ill at the intake manifold Haha. thanks for all the help fellas. you guys know of a good place to get a check valve at. or just the local parts store?

 

You'll be better off getting one from any one of the numerous vendors that sell water injection units, coolingmist, aquamist, devil's own, AEM, Becool, etc... They are purpose built for that application.
You can find parts in ebay or go to the vendor's websites and order directly. A checkvalve is worth its weight in diamonds!!! It doesnt take much water to hydrolock an engine.
When I had my 04 PSD, I drilled and tapped the intake elbow right at the top, and used a 1/8 inch pipe tap to thread it. The atomized spray went straight down into the intake manifold. Now, the reservoir is another issue altogether. That all depends on how much you plan on using it. I, for instance, have a 10 gallon tank in the bed of my truck. You can even tap into the windshield washer reservoir, but depends how much you plan on using it. Its a pain in the *** to keep popping the hood to fill it if you use it often. If your interested, I can try to find the vendor I bought my tank from. Mine was $42. bucks shipped through ebay.

 

Because it doesn't take much water to hydrolock the motor, wouldn't that mean the check valve should be as close as possible to the nozzle? Seems to me that would minimize the amount that could drain back into intake.

 

I put my tank under the hood, I use a 7qt tank. Relocated the vacuum resiviour to the frame rail.

 

That'll work! 7 quarts is plenty to play with. If you use it often, you'll find that 7 qts wont be enough. Been there done that. Thats why I have a 10 gal tank. Thinking of going to 15 gal or larger. I only use mine when pulling my travel trailer. My system comes on only during initial acceleration to fwy speeds, and pulling hills or mountain passes. I can go through quite a bit of H20 and alky during a long trip/ vacation...especially in the rockies.

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Thats a pretty clean fit! Nice job bro........

 

I only use mine at WOT or pulling long/steep grades with the camper. Have it set to come on at 13psi and full on at 23psi.

Running it when playing at WOT, the tank can last quite awhile (short bursts). It's when I tow that it sucks down the W/M, I can go thru 7qts on a 100 mile trip when running in the PA Appalachian Mts. Not a big issue for me, the kids usually need a pee stop half way on our trips.

Usage will also depend on nozzle/injector size, and pump psi setting. The bigger the injector and more pump psi will use more W/M.

I'm running the Snow stage 2, with two 625ml nozzles and pump set at 150psi. Mostly use washer fluid (70/30), but have also mixed my own 51/49 W/M.

 

Hell Im running stage 1. Im running two 150cc nozzles and 50/50 mix of w/m. Thats good enough for me. I have several other nozzle sizes, but for my intended purpose, im good with that. It does what I need it to do. I dont race or hot rod my truck b/c I drive like a grandpa........majority of the time.

 

Well thanks for all the inputs. i definitely will be getting a valve and that switch. and ya that is a nice looking setup you have there. i figured i would have mine kick on at about 12-14 psi and this tank i have for it looks like maybe a half gallon. so i think ill be getting a different tank.

 

Good luck with your project & give us some updates as you go along.