August 1st Marks 1 Year and 6K into this thing. Not road ready but soon.

I have lights in the 4" boost gauge to see it at night. Looking for a good speedo and tach. May make my own hall effect or get digital one from china/ebay.





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I have some questions for you guys.

I know the silicone boot on the turbo comp. housing outlet will not last. But plan to put the 6.4 intercooler on to replace that setup.

Will the brass fitting on my EGT probe melt? Its a stainless autometer probe but I am using a brass compression to 1/8NPT fitting its all I had. Do i need to source one?

PLease tell me if I hooked anything else up wrong.

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It automerged my two posts and deleted my whole first post. I plan to have a setup to automatically control the turbo in a different way which makes the vanes open fully while cruising. only closing down when throttle is pressed with no drive pressure. I dont like the idea of spring shut/boost open if that makes the vanes closed while cruising at low boost. I would assume better fuel mileage with the normally open/throttle shut method I am proposing. THe setup pictured is for me or a passenger to perform many test to develop the best tuning logic for the turbo in refrence to drive press, egt, boost press, intake temp and fuel mileage. Were going for cheap = SPrings, cylinders, differential pressures, bike brake cable. I have to go for now though.

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6 speed shifter for the turbo. other is for 727.

How much power can a 727 with BD converter and Transgo TF-2 kit handle?Thats all I have done so far. I can upgrade the other softparts and some steels then what will it handle?

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6 speed shifter for the turbo. other is for 727.

How much power @6k lbs(but w/37" tires) can a 727 with BD converter and Transgo TF-2 kit handle?Thats all I have done so far. I can upgrade the other softparts and some steels then what will it handle?

 

I think the best way to go is with a air cylinder. you can do the controller for cheep cylinder $25.00. And you don't need to run water to the turbo.But hey if it works

 

Looks good, you brass fitting will be fine. I ran mine to ridiculous temps with no issue.

 

Marty Z, in the setup pictured, what is the general control logic do you keep the vanes closed under low boost conditions, and use boost to open it? Looks like a spring shut/boost open method. Doesnt this kill your mileage and make the truck run hot in general?

Or are u using boot/drive to keep the vanes balanced around a sweetspot?

 

With out going real crazy with power you will be fine. Your mods wont make it an unreliable tranny. I started breaking hard parts in my 89 before I sold it.... The output shaft is the worst one... $1,200 and only 2 left in the world...

https://www.dieselbombers.com/5-9l-r...put-shaft.html

 

Drive to open the turbo and boost to balance.

 

I was actually talking with my trans guy this past week when I put my goerend converter in. He saw my billet servos and saw the springs from the shift kit. He said that in low/reverse they've been known to actually crack/split the servo's when put in reverse and if you were to get on it for any reason while in reverse. Said it was a good idea that I upgraded the servo's and accumulator. Sonax has a kit with everything but the accumulator for 180 bucks I believe.


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