5.9L Rotary Performance Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Rotary Injection Pumps Related To Performance And Longevity

New Guy with Questions

Old Dec 23, 2010 | 09:28 PM
  #11  
CaseyF's Avatar
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Hmmm, do you have to take front cover in front of the ip to skip a tooth?
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 10:06 PM
  #12  
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Yeah. You need a gear puller too.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 01:51 AM
  #13  
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You have to take the radiator and everything else off also, right?
 
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 11:31 AM
  #14  
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Thanks for all the tips guys....My plan is to get all the mods done and have it running good b4 i pull it for my repower setup/ this engine is going in a ford f250 4x4..

I have a Fuel pin and spring on the way she has 200,000 miles on it but seems to run pretty good
 
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 08:11 AM
  #15  
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OK the Plan

Turn up pump replace fuel pin (Danny T) Replace spring stage 2 3,600 ( i think that was it) remove muffler. adjust smoke screw

I am looking to replace the turbo...what should i look for

I don't need allot of mods just a few easy good ones. My plan was to repower a 87 F250 but this 92 D250 2wd is in good shape Now I am looking to make this 2wd to 4wd


What else guys?
 
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 10:30 AM
  #16  
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If you do it right, you don't need a board or a buddy to turn up the fuel.
Just run the idle screw (top screw on the injection pump, nearly beside the head) all the way back and adjust the fuel screw in to make it idle.
This works fine if you don't do a 3200 governor spring.
If you do a spring it alters the indexing on the throttle arm, then you need to adjust the fuel screw accordingly, or re-index the arm for less fuel.

Do the timing bump (if you feel you must) BEFORE you do any other adjustments.

Another very beneficial thing to do is to run the full RPM screw (lower most screw on the injection pump) clear back and adjust the throttle linkage so you have actual full throttle travel.

Mark.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 11:16 AM
  #17  
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i'm pretty sure you have to get 60# valve springs if you go over a 3200 spring.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 11:38 AM
  #18  
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As far as the turbo, I just got an hx35 exhaust housing of a 2nd gen (94-98.5) and it bolted right up to my h1c. Boost stays below 30 psi (w/g wired shut) and good low end boost, and nice whistle. I only have a lightly tweaked pump though, 2 turns on the power screw and star wheel. no pin or injector mods. Good luck on the swap, you'll love it!
 
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 10:23 PM
  #19  
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CaseyF had it right. make sure you have a friend when adjusting the fuel screw. timing bump good. A Fuel pin is one of the best opions with timing i have a BD fuel pin and I think gets the job done. I have not tried any other fuelpin, the BD pin gets it, $150.00 with the 3200 spring.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 10:37 PM
  #20  
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If you know what you are doing, no assistance is required.
No board, either.

I have done ZERO adjustments to the AFC on the 1 ton in my signature and it does everything it should, smokes if I want it to, has plenty of power doing it, and I didn't need a special pin to do that, either.

It's no surprise that a governor spring and a couple turns on the fuel screw can get decent gains and tolerable smoke, WITHOUT tuning the AFC.

Mark.
 
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