New Guy with Questions
#1
12-22-2010, 09:29 AM
New Guy with Questions
I am looking at a 1989 2wd 12v Auto 727
Anything i should check over real good? it's dry and seems to run good. He said the fuel screw has been turned up.
Also what kind of number are the 89 12v stock? and what kind of number do they make with fuel screw turned in?
What things can i do cheap to increase the HP
My overall plan is to put this into my 87f250 4x4
\Thanks!
Anything i should check over real good? it's dry and seems to run good. He said the fuel screw has been turned up.
Also what kind of number are the 89 12v stock? and what kind of number do they make with fuel screw turned in?
What things can i do cheap to increase the HP
My overall plan is to put this into my 87f250 4x4
\Thanks!
#2
12-22-2010, 01:05 PM
they're ratesd at 160hp stock. the non intercooled trucks have bigger injectors so it should run pretty good with just the pump turned up all the way. Other things:
Tune the AFC
Turn or grind the fuel pin, or get a new one.
Slap an HX35 on it, they're between $100 and $300 where i live and they're a tad bigger than the non-ic H1Cs i think.
Go to the sticky for more.
Tune the AFC
Turn or grind the fuel pin, or get a new one.
Slap an HX35 on it, they're between $100 and $300 where i live and they're a tad bigger than the non-ic H1Cs i think.
Go to the sticky for more.
#5
12-22-2010, 03:48 PM
thats a great buy
and just wat hiboy 76 said. the fuel screw can be turned to far in though and cause run away. turn it in half turns each and easly rev the motor when u get the screw turned in to the point where u rev the motor and the rpms stay or slowly drop then back the screw out half turn and leave it there for max fuel. second u have a preboost fuel screw a starwheel and fuel pin u can adjust for a little more hp and better running. theres also fuel pins u can buy to add 40 hp give or take. second make sure u have a straight pipe, air intake, and get gauges at least boost and pyro and a trans temp if ur gonna keep that automatic. and if u are gonna keep it u mite as well toughen it up while u pull it out. next a hx35 is a good upgrade for that get a boost elbow and if u dont know about the headbolts and gasket dont go over 40 psi i would leave it at 35 psi. and back to the pump u can adjust timing on it very easily which will help big time but i wouldnt go much because of ur headgasket and stock head bolts again. that should be 250 or a little above if everything is adjusted rite. a 3200 rpm spring will open it on up also! u can also get a rack plug for a little more rack travel im sure i missed somethin out 
and just wat hiboy 76 said. the fuel screw can be turned to far in though and cause run away. turn it in half turns each and easly rev the motor when u get the screw turned in to the point where u rev the motor and the rpms stay or slowly drop then back the screw out half turn and leave it there for max fuel. second u have a preboost fuel screw a starwheel and fuel pin u can adjust for a little more hp and better running. theres also fuel pins u can buy to add 40 hp give or take. second make sure u have a straight pipe, air intake, and get gauges at least boost and pyro and a trans temp if ur gonna keep that automatic. and if u are gonna keep it u mite as well toughen it up while u pull it out. next a hx35 is a good upgrade for that get a boost elbow and if u dont know about the headbolts and gasket dont go over 40 psi i would leave it at 35 psi. and back to the pump u can adjust timing on it very easily which will help big time but i wouldnt go much because of ur headgasket and stock head bolts again. that should be 250 or a little above if everything is adjusted rite. a 3200 rpm spring will open it on up also! u can also get a rack plug for a little more rack travel im sure i missed somethin out
#6
12-22-2010, 11:09 PM
#7
12-23-2010, 06:05 AM
When your turning the fuel screw in make sure you have someone helping you. Take the inlet tube off of the turbo and let them stand there with a 2x4 or an eqivalent. Then you will turn the fuel screw in, in half turn increments. When the motor ''runsaway'', put the 2x4 on the mouth of the turbo and the board will choke it. After it dies, take the board off and back the screw out 1/2 a turn. Start it back up and take her for a drive. 
This is where most of the power comes from. - Free
Like the other guys said you can get a fuel pin, several companies make these, Denny T Performance, M&H INC., BD, and Bully Dog. Personally I'm going to go with a Denny T Stage II, but it's your truck, you can do with it as you please. - $105 to $125
I would recommened getting a 366 spring (A.K.A. Gov. Spring, 3200 RPM Spring), They help fuel the top end. - $15
Advance the timing to 1/8'' or 3/16'', This will keep your EGT's (Exhaust Gas Temp.) down a little and give more top end power. - Free
I would get an HX35 or HE351 turbo for starters and maybe an S300 if you have the money. - $100 to $1,250
I would also recommend getting an intercooler, and 3'' intercooler piping, either cooler tubz or from a second gen. - $165 to $265
I forgot to add, get some gauges and don't let you EGT's get over 1300*. - Depends on brand, but $160 to $300
This setup should get you to around 300 rwhp, but idk, I'm not real good with the numbers (I use the seat of my pants) I'm sure someone else will step in and lend a hand.
So your looking at $550 to $2000, Good luck!
This is where most of the power comes from. - FreeLike the other guys said you can get a fuel pin, several companies make these, Denny T Performance, M&H INC., BD, and Bully Dog. Personally I'm going to go with a Denny T Stage II, but it's your truck, you can do with it as you please. - $105 to $125
I would recommened getting a 366 spring (A.K.A. Gov. Spring, 3200 RPM Spring), They help fuel the top end. - $15
Advance the timing to 1/8'' or 3/16'', This will keep your EGT's (Exhaust Gas Temp.) down a little and give more top end power. - Free
I would get an HX35 or HE351 turbo for starters and maybe an S300 if you have the money. - $100 to $1,250
I would also recommend getting an intercooler, and 3'' intercooler piping, either cooler tubz or from a second gen. - $165 to $265
I forgot to add, get some gauges and don't let you EGT's get over 1300*. - Depends on brand, but $160 to $300
This setup should get you to around 300 rwhp, but idk, I'm not real good with the numbers (I use the seat of my pants
) I'm sure someone else will step in and lend a hand. So your looking at $550 to $2000, Good luck!
Last edited by CaseyF; 12-23-2010 at 06:21 AM. Reason: Forgot to mention things and prices.
#8
12-23-2010, 07:16 AM
the non-ic truck came with a good setup for fuel except the lazy stock lift pump. id upgrade that first, but thats me. they came with weak air setup though. small turbo and air intakes. id look for something like a 7 blade super hx40 or he351 thats got the 60mm wheel. youll need 4" exhaust with those. 4" intake too and i think your truck has 3.5"?
after that expensive stuff id do the free and cheap things to move more fuel. tamper with the full power screw, add 1/4" of timing or so, remove the high idle screw and install a 366 spring.
that should make i a whole new truck with more power than youre asking for and have about 1000 bucks in it, depending on how well you shop around of course.
after that expensive stuff id do the free and cheap things to move more fuel. tamper with the full power screw, add 1/4" of timing or so, remove the high idle screw and install a 366 spring.
that should make i a whole new truck with more power than youre asking for and have about 1000 bucks in it, depending on how well you shop around of course.
#10
12-23-2010, 06:03 PM
