what is a way to be able to hook that probe into the radiator itself to get a more accurate reading

 

i just did what bobby told me. took off upper radiator hose the, drop it in the radiator, put the hose back on and tighten until it doesnt leak. worked for me.

i would have to add to this whole thing, that after driving it alot, i really dont like the operation of this controller at all with how it works. i am going to take it out, and put a coolant temp switch in that activates at 190. the controller seems to be garbage IMO. i wont be using one again

 

i was looking at the napa one and it seemed cheesy any othe type of switch available to be able to activate the fans at a certain temp

 

there are thousands of switches avaialable. go to napa and ask them for their book on switches. just find one that turns on when it hits the temp you want. you can look on their website too

 

are you using the adjustable temp one? we got the adjustable temp kit with the actual coolant probe and installed it in my bro in laws 69 mustang, drilled and tapped a hole in the manifold, cummins has provisions in the thermostat housing for this probe. it may be that the kit is configured to be used as a radiant heat prob and not a direct temp. could be causing your innaccuracies. only problem we ran into was shutting the engine down with the fan running, it'll continue to run the fan even after the radiator is cool as its gettin the temp reading from the manifold temp. a switch with a key off decay (if there's one out there?) or better yet a turbo timer, hook the hot circuit into the turbo timer, key on: it functions fine, key off it'll keep the engine and fan running until the turbo is cool allowing both cooling of engine and turbo.

 

U could also use a realy wired to your ign on as a ground interupter between the temp switch and the fan. A timer would be cool 2 just wire your fuel shut off and fan contoler or temp switch thru the timer so if you activate time and turn key off then the fan will run also if temp is hot enough . If the water temp is below lets say 190° then the fan wont run .You can get a simple 110v fan timer at a hardware store for like 12 bucks . There rated at 15-20 amp at 110v so they should handle a 45 amp 12v dc load or just wire on the switch side of the fan relay?

 

idk about that statement, seems awful funny that extention cords and most 110v appliances are only rated at 10 amp loads and automotive circuits can be up to 30A or better... voltage is electrical push, more voltage/push= less draw (amperage) play around with ohms and watts law abit. eitherway your suggestion may still work if its on the control circuit of the relay as they dont draw any signifficant ammount of current. either way, i still think this is gettin a bit too involved for what tltruckparts was really looking for. get a N.O temp switch for like 200-210* when it completes the circuit, fan comes on until X* when the switch breaks connection; problem solved. simple and bullet proof.

 

exactly. thats what im going to do. i was thinking more along the lines of 185-195 but ya still the same theory. simple and easy. not just to do it

 

ok so how exactly would i hook the fan up?

 

in place of the orange wire on the diagram i posted you would just replace that with the output of a temp switch thats all. its pretty easy