The pin is in there, in particular in the 12V's with the weight of the pump pulling on the case all the time to prevent the shearing affect on the bolts. The bolts create the clamping force to hold the gear case tight but the pin prevents the bolt's from shearing.

 

yeah and how do u know the case is in the right position for proper gear mesh without the pin. there is too much slop in the bolt holes for them to properly align the case.

 

I know it sucks, but you better pull that cover and put the pin back in. There are 2 dowel pins on the gear housing, the KDP above the cam gear and one on the lower pass side of the block. Those 2 pins will insure the case is exactly where it needs to be. I really think you are tempting fate with your new cool upgrade by removing it.

Also, on top of the weight of the P Pump (36 or 42lbs I don't remember), you are also fighting the pumping force of the P Pump. They take a considerable amount of power to rotate, and that will also attempt to force the cam and pump gears apart. Remember, the crank and pump gears rotate clockwise, which is capable of pushing the pump off the cam gear.

Other than that great write up and great job.

Traitor. . . .

 

The only thing the tab is for is ease of assembly on the assembly line at cummins, serves no other purpose other than making a big mess when it falls out, thats how I kill all of my dowel pins, havent had ne trouble yet.

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You are correct sir! My uncle worked on the assembly line for 41 years at the cummins plant in columbus, that was there only purpose to speed up assembly time.

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pop it out after the case is on

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Thats why there is a mounting bracket that bolts to the bottom of the P-pump to the side of the block to take the strain off the case.

I guess we all have different ways of doin things, each and to there own i guess. besides the bolts used to hold the cover on are a metric 9.5 witch is roughly a grade 5 in standard. and the tab is a grade 2, so not much help in shear strength i wouldnt think. plus what is there like 10 or better bolts that hold the cover on? I guess untill i see a case crack or something ill stick with this way,

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But at Any rate, thanks every one for all your kind words I hope alot of other members can find this info very usefull when attempting a swap themselves

 

So, you're telling me that the engineers did not take into account the torsional shear support of the pin in relation to the case around the center of rotation and the required blots should be enough to support the shearing forces produced from the rotating masses, torsional vibrations and weight of accessories? Being an engineer myself, I'm throwing up the BS flag...

You are correct in saying that the pins are there for ease of alignment during assembly, but that's NOT the ONLY reason they are there. If there were JUST there for assembly, don't you think they would be hollow roll pins to save money and manufacturing time? The fact they are solid suggests to me that they provide added shear support. The fact that many engines can survive without them is proof to the 1.2 rule (factor of safety), but the closer you get to 1 the closer you are to barely having enough to survive NORMAL conditions. Now riddle me this...how many diesel trucks on the road see "normal" conditions? As in NO mods, NO hauling over the RATED GVW, NO show off behind the wheel...blah blah blah, you get where I'm going...

But, alas, my motto is "to each his own", so do what you know is best and what you are most comfortable with and if it works, so be it. There truly is more than one way to skin a cat. But, me personally, I like the pins right where they are...where they are supposed to be.

Great build by the way!

 

Yeah dude. The pins "locate" the timing case to the block. I am a machinist as well as a student and there have been several things that I had to make with dowel pins to "locate" parts because bolt holes (i don't care how you drill them) are too sloppy. I would be willing to bet your timing case will move because there is nothing other than those little bolts holding all the force from the injection pump. They are not on there just for assembly purposes, or ease of machining. Tolerances within .001 of an inch or even less are required to machine the holes for the dowel pins and it is a pain in the butt to get the pins in during assembly. I am not trying to knock you. It may work fine, but they definitely serve a purpose.

 

good job

 

well if it helps any the one guy at my work has been running kdp less for 100k ish miles, (sinse he replaced his IP at 250k) no problems yet.....but thats with a VE not a P7100
but at any rate i would still love to have your truck great work

 

Either way Im not going to argue about the this, we all just go by what we are told. And we all do what works. This thread was started to help out other guys if they wanted or have been thinking of doin this swap but not to for sure whats involved. Not to have any ones machanicle ability questioned. I now every one here is just trying to help, and thats the way it should be. If there was a problem with taking it out completely i would have stoped doing it about 8 engines ago. But either way thanks for your post, and thanks to all for your coments. Keep em coming

 

Make this a sticky!!