Here is the grill, bumber a/c condenser, intercooler all out of the way. what I did to make it a little easier to get the camshaft out a little easier down the road was to take a cut off wheel and cut the center support out of the grill ( ill re-weld it when its back together)

 

Here I have pulled the valve covers, fuel lines, and ready to take off the injection pump. Just remember its a good idea to lock your pump in "time" before removal. Just take and roll the engine till its at TDC compression stroke by pushing in the plastic timing pin in the back of the case. Will make it a whole lot easier if you ever go to use it again. Also disconnect the heater hoses and pipes. This will make it alot easier for cylinder head removal later on.

 

Here you can see the cylinder head removed ( I will be installing A .020 over marine head gasket and ARP studs, you do not need to remove the head to do a P-pump Swap, but you will need to remove valve covers and pushrods to hold up the lifts for camshaft removal to get the old Ve gear case off.) U must use some form of tool to hold the lifters up so u can remove the camshaft from the block. I used 1/2" wood dowles, seat them into the lifter and tap them with a hammer, pull them up and put a zip tie on them to hold them in place.

 

Here you can see the dowels in the block holding up the lifters keep these in place till the cam is put back in the block. You can now remove the camshaft and the front cover. You can see the p-pump cover in plave ( make sure all gasket sealing surfaces are clean before reassembly, so you dont

 

Here you will notice the oil line that will go to the P-pump. Do not forget to get these steel braided lines when you are sourcing your parts for the swap. There is a T fitting that screws into the block and two steel braided hoses one that goes to the vaccum pump and the other that goes to the p-pump. I had to use the longer one to go to the p-pump beacuse of the way it sits. Also you will need to remove the insulation that covers the pushrod cove as the pump will not fit in place with it attached.

 

Here is the pump installed, with the calbes and fuel lines hooked up. Also remember when sourcing parts to get the fuel return tube and the bolt that attaches it to the back of the pump. Get an accelerator cable from a 1994 manual trans truck. This will make all the connections very easy for the throttle. Remember to get the throttle brackets that attach to the side of the pump as these are pretty hard to find. You will also see that the pump gear( make sure to clean the pump shaft surface and the hole in the pump gear with carb cleaner, starting fluid before you put the gear on the shaft, if it has oil on it, the gear can slip after final torque and cause timing to jump then you have to re-time the pump all over again!)and camshaft is back in. REMEMBER when installing your cam there are cam timing marks on the cam and crank gear. There are two zeros on the pump gear and one zero on the crank gear. Make sure the single zero is in the center of the two zeros on the pump gear.

 

Here you can see the gear case all put back together. Just put the pump gear nut on finger tite for now(you will torque it down when after you time your pump), and remember to use a new front crank seal in your cover(with no lube on the crank snout) Then reassemble the valve train, adjusting to .010 on the intake side and .020 on the exhaust side. I adjusted them the hard way i guess i just rolled the engine over till each valve was sitting on the base circle of the cam that way I know for sure you get an acrate adjustment.

 

Then after that you can put your injection pump in time, start by taking the hex shaped plug off the side of the pump. Then you will se a plastic forked pin thats your timing tab. you will need to spin the engine over by hand untill you see a flat metal tab directly in the center of the hole were that pin came out of. Then install the forked portion of that tab into the slot engageing that metal tab in the pump. then put the hex shape plug back on only hand tight. Then take ang torque the pump gear nut to 11ft lbs. this will hep to ensure the pump dont turn while you spin over the engine.

After that make sure the pump gear is loose from the shaft you will have to use a puller and two 8x1.25mm bolts to pop the pump gear loose. Take and spin the ening over till your on the compression stroke on number 1 cylinder. Then take a ratchet and a 15mm socket and spin the engineclockwise wile pushing in on the black plastic timing pin on the back of the case, directly under the pump untill it engages the cam gear. After that you are at 100% TDC on compression stroke. You now can begin to torque the pump gear nut. Take and apply green penetrating threadlocker to the pump shaft before torquing. Now is a good time to remove that hexshaped plug on the side of the pump and double check it has not moved, once verified that it has not. have some one hold a breaker bar on one of the balancer bolts while you torque the pump gear nut to 150 Ft lbs. let thread locker set up for bout 30min before intial start up. This pump timing method will put you at stock timing a good place to start tuning from.

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bout $1200 all together

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As you can see from the write up, not to bad at all. So give it a try!!!

 

Very nice! I'm gonna add it to the sticky!

 

Sweet thanks bud!!!