Only one catch- parking brake.

The only alternative I see for the parking brake is a second caliper with an internal parking brake lever, then finding SEVERELY worn pads in an attempt to make it wide enough to clear the massive front rotor.

 

Using similar mounts, Cadillac Eldorado rear calipers (with parking brake) work just fine.

 

Did ya build this mount or buy it pre-made someplace. Also curious as to what rotor you used for this. I'll take all the details you can give.

 

the cadillac calipers are almost the exact same as like a 77 chevy k20 front caliper, only real difference is the e brake setup. and they bolt directly on to the same flange they use for the chevy so if you buy a premade piece made for the chevy mounting bracket, theyll bolt right on.

only down side about the caddy calipers is the core on them is outrageous. and make sure they come with the parking brake lever on them, because if they dont theyre very hard to come by

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oh ya and as for the rotor, they used the standard chevy 73-87 k20 rotor

 

Any more details?

 

what details you looking for? his is the same setup as mine is on my 14 bolt. ive done quite a few of these i can probably answer of of your questions with them.

its a pretty standard isntall, unbolt the drums, install the new caliper bracket into the old holes that the drums were bolted to (using spacers if necesary). then you pound the new rotor on the old hub like above, slide it back on the spindle, tighten all the spindle nuts, throw on the caliper and pads, and then rig up an e brake (if applicable). all you need is a pull style metal line that connects to that tab on the top of the caliper

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the brackets bolt on normally through the same bolt holes that the drum housing was on before. i guess you could weld it if you wanted to. i had to weld mine but its a new style 14 bolt but the 70 should bolt up.

as for why k20 rotors, the size is good, theyre CHEAP and VERY easily to come by. any and every auto parts store normally has them in stock theyre not hard to come by at all.

and as for vibrations, no, because even though it removes weight, it removes a balanced system and reinstalls a balanced system (I.E. the caliper is true just as a drum would be)

 

What is the axle tube width on that 70?

I'm just trying to verify they are the same as a small tube D80, and see if the victim I deal with (1999 NV4500 SRW) has the small tubes. If it does, this could get interesting!

Quoted from another site-

This could also help you out if you break that 10.5 inch rear end in the future.

 

how would it make it interesting with how big the tube is? it has nothing to do with a disc brake swap at all

 

Were tryin to figure out what all trucks this conversion could be done on.

 

Don't qoute me on it, but logic says the large tube D80 has a different flange then the D70 that the bracketry mount to, but the small tube 80 should have the same flange size since they have the same axle tube size. The small D80 still benefits from the 11 inch ring gear as compared to the 10.5 inch ring gear in the D70.

Maybe I should also ask what the distance is from hole to hole on the flange ya'll are running and then compare it to the 80?

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One last question for the day-
How is the brake pedal travel with the disc brake swap? OEM puts a larger master cylinder on the 2001+ trucks then the older ones, and I assume that is because of the disc brake rear axle. Discs GENERALLY use more volume then drums (One large piston on each corner vs two small ones).