The install of the converter and valve body were done thursday. Here is my take so far. The converter is great, the truck pulls hard and I am actually seeing an rpm drop when it shifts. Lockup is fast and firm but not a slam, if I have the pedal floor boarded on the speedloader I do see 10 rpm slip in 3rd and 5 rpm slip in od at first but it drops right back down to 1 rpm (I suspect banks that may be a little over sensitive on the calculations).

Now for the valve body, shifts are firm but at wot it won't upshift to 3rd, I have had it as high as 3400 rpm and still wouldn't shift. As soon as I let off the throttle a little it slams into third. The only time it does this is if I have the pedal to the floor, a little less and it shifts into third fine at 3100 rpm. I was also having an issue with 2nd just letting go for a second, like I shifted it to neutral, and as soon as I let off the throttle it would grab again, didn't matter what throttle position it was at or what power setting the banks was on, even stock. Last night I decided to disconnect the batteries for about a half hour and haven't had the 2nd letting go problem since and the shuttle shift it had gained has also gone away for now.

 

U need to adjust your Throttle Valve Cable.

 

I don't have a throttle cable, it is an 06, is there anything else I can check. I checked for codes and don't have any showing up so I am at a loss.

 

Adjust the band and let us know how it works then!

 

Did you upgrade the gov solenoid to one of the aftermarket ones? Using the OE solenoid has issues with some VB builds as it will flood the gov circuit with line pressure and you get the hang shifts.

The second gear almost like neutral is normal with that problem also, but, there are some other things you need to address there. The band strut and anchor need to be upgraded to billet pieces or you will bend the strut with the extra line pressure. The 2nd gear servo also does not always work correctly with the higher pressures. You really need to either fix it with a kit that removes the spring that buffers the shift or upgrade tot he billet piston and cover to address leaks.

A good investment with the trucks with a TTVA is a DTT shift enhancer to get rid of the shuttle and funny shifting routines at light throttle. Its not a must if you short of $$. You can tweak the VB to work without it but it takes some playing to find the right combo with each truck.

 

Rev maxx is sending a new valve body, should be here tomorrow, I also ordered the upgraded gm servo and will be installing all new electronics on the new valve body before I put it in. I also have a moan in the transmission if the convertor is locked and I floor board the skinny pedal, so I suspect something is wrong in the kickdown area of the valve body.

 

hey i'm interested in how it all worked out like you i am short on cash and we just bought this truck and i'm having tranny issues so i would like to know how this companies parts worked for you, i found them on ebay then looked em up and found you

 

I hope it worked out for him but I wouldn't risk it in my $$$ truck.

 

The third valve body ended up working but by the time I got it in the wrong ones had done damage. The convertor is not something I would spend my money on again, the lockup holds great on all smarty settings, but sw 5 and over just blows right through the fluid coupling. It also makes A LOT of heat when it is not in lockup, I see 230+ around town when not locked and at one point this summer while towing I saw well over the 280 that my gauge reads.

The convertor is coming out within the next month I decided to replace it while the trans is out for a rebuild, and no it won't be one of his going back in. I went with DTT this time and am looking forward to seeing what a good convertor feels like.

 

You will love that DTT Converter.

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