Hey guys,

I am trying to build my truck to at least 750rwhp in the next 2 years on a college student budget. However, I am motivated and have made some progress as you can see in my signature (which is updated) considering I have only had the truck for a year. I use the truck as a DD and periodically tow about 12k pounds (once a month at best) safe EGTs are a priority for me I have heard too many horror stories about high egt meltdowns. Even though, I really dont know what would be considered a high temp, but right now my H&S is set to defuel at 1250deg, is that ok? I have talked to several people I know who are more experienced in the diesel world than I am and they have guided me toward the products on this list. Please read over my list and tell me what you guys think, especially if there is something I am missing or could do better on. Also, please guide me on some good brands, because I have no clue about these diesel performance companies. Thanks in advance for helping the newbie. My list is in the order I intend to do the work:

ARP 425 head studs (installed one at a time w/o removing the head)
II Silver Bullet 64/74/14 Turbo
Either Wicked diesel 85% over CP3 or an ATS dual kit using a LBZ pump
"Big stick" Cam with 150lb springs (I think he said 150lb springs could be wrong)
125hp injectors (unsure of brand, can I just buy nozzles?)
Compound setup using the Silver Bullet 64 & a BW S480

As far as I know that is everything he told me I needed. He said that would be enough air to keep my EGTs safe under WOT and enough fuel to prevent lag. He said my H&S would be fine I wouldnt need to change that out and my dyno numbers on the 200hp tune should be in the 750-800 ball park, which he said is completely safe on the stock bottom end.
Thanks again for taking the time to read all this and help me out guys.

 

Most everything on that list makes sense other than keeping the H&S and go with the 625 headstuds if you are running the 64/480 compounds. It will greatly help reduce the possibility of having head gasket issues later on down the road. The 425's will be ok but go into it knowing that you do stand a chance to have a gasket failure. The silver 64 can achieve that goal but it will be alittle on the warmer side egt's wise but it is attainable with EFI Live but not with a H&S personally.

As far as fuel goes I would go with dual cp3's with a lbz pump over a larger single pump for drive ability reasons. The dual cp3's will other a smoother more constant throttle vs. a generally surgy throttle with a larger single cp3. For injectors 125's would be able to reach that power goal or you can go alittle larger than that and run a smaller tune via EFI Live. I have a 06 here with 180's and a silver 64 with efi live and its just a puff of smoke and gone. So with that you can use alittle larger injector and use some tuning while not maxing out injector duty cycle's.

As far as the cam goes I love my colt stage 3 cam, maxspool enginnering, billet pushrods, and 110lbs valve springs which is all that is needed. To turn higher rpm and deal with higher flow situations.

For the compounds that a great sized set for running cool at the 750hp range while keeping egts managable as well.

 

Ok Scott I will change my parts list to ARP 625. I will go to EFI Live, but I'd prefer to wait until I get the hard parts in that way I don't have to buy tunes every time I upgrade something, make sense? What is the warmer side? I will probably go with at least 150s then and maybe even the 180s. I want usuable power across the board from my mild tune to my highest tune I don't want to get scared every time I floor it on an aggressive tune. Does the 150lb springs sound right for the cam?

 

110lbs Springs is all thats required or if you are worried 110lbs dual springs. 150's or 180's will be a good setup like a said with EFI so we dont over tax the injectors.

 

Ok, so I have done some more researching and I do not see the benefit of buying the 625s over the 425s... The 625s are about 3 times the price and the advertised clamping force isnt much higher than the 425s.. Is there something I am missing? I really do not want to spend $1300 just for the studs, what about the H11s? would they be a happy medium? Do you know what springs my truck has from the factory? Also, with the CP3s, can I use my stock cp3 with the LBZ and be fine or would I have to add an arson kit to my stocker? If I go with the 150s would they be ok to run on the Silver 64 with a low setting maybe even set my H&S to "No Power" until I could save for the installation of the S480 & EFI Live? What about my stock intercooler will it support that kind of power? Do I need to upgrade intercooler boots? Sorry for all the questions, but I am trying to make sure I understand every aspect of my build, so I can make a solid plan for moving forward.

 

There is quite a huge benefit in the 625's. They may not torque to much higher but they will not stretch over time like a 425 will after lots of heat cycles and retorques. The H11's are not a bad medium either for what you are looking at doing. I honestly couldnt tell you what stock springs are but I think they are like 50-60lbs. If you go duals you will keep your stock cp3 in the factory location and use the LBZ pump over that. You really wont need to even touch your stock cp3. Since the LBZ pump is about 40% larger than your stock dodge cp3.

Yes you can run 150's with a silver 64 on a smaller tune until you get the money for the S480 and the EFI Live. As for the Intercooler I always recommend upgrading that when increasing airflow. The stock 05 IC is very restrictive and prone to rupturing under high pressure since the 05 has a plastic IC. And yes I always recommending upgrading IC boots when you increase flow and pressure.

 

06 has metal tanks, the 05 plastic tanks were a short run and a lot got replaced under warranty for busting with metal I/Cs. Deff. do the boots, to me the I/C upgrade is a toss up. there are a lot of trucks makin that hp and more with oe intercoolers. 160# sounds very heavy for a flat tappet cam especially in a street driver. 107s or 110s will be more than plenty. dual stockers will work, you could install the arson if you wanted to that would be a preference thing. I don't care much for the h11s. maybe they have gotten better but, they seem too hard they don't stretch they snap and have been known to dimple hoods. I have run across a few snapped and laying in the top of the head.

 

IC is one of the most important airflow pieces in a pickup to help lower ait's and reduce egts all at the same time. And most of the 05's i have seen still have the plastic IC's in them as well

 

I agree with you that they are an important item but, there are a lot of guys making big numbers with oe coolers. Its the price vs. gain that I wonder about.

 

From experience its way worth it. I made decent power with a OE but saw big gains when I went to me BD one. Im not saying you cant make power with them you just cant do it as efficient with a OE versus Aftermarket