5.9L 24V Performance Discussion of 24 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with VP44 Injection Pumps Related To Performance And Longevity

push button igniton

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  #11  
Old 08-16-2011, 11:23 PM
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hmmm amperage could be an issue, i'll have to look at amperage for the ignition and the lighter. if i remember right the cig lighter is a 30 amp fused, idk about the ignition. in that case i'd need to tap into a power that handles the same amount of amperage as the ignition system is rated for to get proper operation.

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other thing which i may be wrong in thinking it that the cig lighter would have to be yanked out from depression once the engine started to stop cranking. i may be wrong but just a thought.
 

Last edited by wyodiesel92; 08-16-2011 at 11:23 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 08-17-2011, 07:29 AM
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I think he means remove the cig lighter assembly, and put your push button in there. It would be rather concealed, especially if you could put a cover over it.
 
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Old 08-17-2011, 09:07 AM
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ive seen people set them up in little rice boxes so that the factory cig lighter is depressed to start the car, just cant find much on them.

i took a look in my wiring diagram for the starting system in my haynes late last night so i could have read wrong but from what i'm seeing the power to the ignition is on a 40 amp fuse, red to the ignition with 12ga wire and the wire running to signal is dark blue and yellow 18ga wire. although idk if i trust my haynes on that since it's been pretty useless for much on my truck in the past, mostly gas engine stuff. says for diesel too but kinda shotty.

so from what i'm seeing i need a circuit with the ability to handle up to 40 amps for proper starting.
 
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Old 08-17-2011, 06:37 PM
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the way i said with the key would not crank unless you hooked the wires back to the starter just un hook them tape them up and tie the factory wires back and run your new wire the way i mentioned would be push button only
 
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Old 08-17-2011, 06:59 PM
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Your way will allow the starter to crank anytime the button is pushed. The engine won't start, but it will crank over.
 
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Old 08-18-2011, 12:14 AM
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hmmm

think of anything raw?
 
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Old 08-18-2011, 07:49 AM
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After looking at the schematic, it should be very easy. Know how you got power in the cab for your EJWA? Do the same thing on a different fuse, and use that as your power supply. Run that to one side of you push button.

If you can get that yellow wire out of the connector that goes into the ingnition that would be the best. Then if you want to revert back to factory style staring methods it is very easy. Once you have that yellow wire free, splice a length of wire onto it and run it to the other side of your push button.
 
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Old 08-18-2011, 06:24 PM
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Sweet thanks for lookin bud! What size amp push button do you think would be best? I guess depending on what size fuse I tap to id probably want to match the amperage as the fuse I'm thinking.

I think when I go to do this hopefully on my days off ill do a write up for the tech section to help other bombers who want to do it. Probably be doing a write up on putting in hood vents also.
 
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Old 08-19-2011, 05:34 PM
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You won't need a high amperage switch at all. A 12 volt, 30 amp relay, like the one for the starter, will pull 1amp MAX.
 
  #20  
Old 08-20-2011, 10:50 AM
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ahhh didnt think about that....guess i can take the goofy looking push button switch back to the parts store and get a semi nice one.

hmmm should i tap into a constant power or tap into a switched power.....constant would be nice for if i want to crank and not run for any reason, not sure for what though....

and wondering what circuits i should stay away from for power, i imagine since we arent pulling much amperage any will do except for the obvious safety equipment

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Nevermind. Thought about it and I'm going to go into a switched power.
 

Last edited by wyodiesel92; 08-20-2011 at 10:50 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost


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