fass ddrp lift pump pressures?
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I ran my in tank pump and a CarQuest block mount when I first got my Dodge. I made a Y connector to hook into the factory harness for both pumps. One end to the harness, one for the block pump, and the other for the relay to the tank pump. This way the current draw wouldn't be too high from the ECU/PCM. It made 29 PSI at low idle, and dropped to 15 PSI at WOT with the EJWA on 5. Too much at low, and dropped significantly under load. When I put my FASS in I put a a draw straw in as well. I'm tired of the 1/4 tank issue so I will be putting a Vulcan Draw Straw V in soon.
Voltage at the pump shouldn't be much less then system voltage, running or not. Try probing for voltage with the pump running if you can by back probing the connector. Disconnected you may find proper voltage, under load with poor connections will be different. To check the in tank pump you can unhook the DDRP, bump the starter and listen around your fuel tank. You should be able to hear it.
Voltage at the pump shouldn't be much less then system voltage, running or not. Try probing for voltage with the pump running if you can by back probing the connector. Disconnected you may find proper voltage, under load with poor connections will be different. To check the in tank pump you can unhook the DDRP, bump the starter and listen around your fuel tank. You should be able to hear it.
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24vmatt (08-02-2010)
#16
When the factory in tank pump starts to fail, does it also cause the factory fuel guage to reas incorrectly? If I remove the factory fuel pump will I have to replace the fuel guage sending unit aswell, and how does the draw straw work, where can I purchase the necessary parts to do this modification. 98' Dodge 24v diesel, Thank you, Kerley
#17
If Dodge got a hold of your truck and put a pump in the tank there is more than likely an extra relay under the dash. At least there is on mine. A harness will run from the engine lift pump harness to a relay to activate it, then another harness down the frame rail to your tank.
There is a high possibility that if the pump is failing and the sender unit it is a wiring issue. Not to say both have fail, that is possible as well.
You can buy kits from Vulcan that can turn the fuel pump basket into a high flow unit, or buy an entire sending unit from them with the kit installed.
Vulcan compound turbo components, AirDog Systems, FireBall injectors, DrawStraw? Big Line Kits, VP silicone boot kits, gauge installation components, metric adapters & fittings, FASS, Quadzilla, Edge,AirDog, DTT Trans, ISSPRO, HTT Turbo, AFE, Veg pum
I have a very basic draw straw in mine currently, a 1/2" stainless draw straw, and it poses a 1/4 tank issue due to fuel slosh. I have ordered a Vulcan Draw Straw V, and will be installing it as soon as I can. If my module had failed, I would have bought the LibertyFuel Module w/ DrawStraw™ Installed. High flow capabilities with a new sending unit for LESS than the Dealerships would charge for a sender alone.
There is a high possibility that if the pump is failing and the sender unit it is a wiring issue. Not to say both have fail, that is possible as well.
You can buy kits from Vulcan that can turn the fuel pump basket into a high flow unit, or buy an entire sending unit from them with the kit installed.
Vulcan compound turbo components, AirDog Systems, FireBall injectors, DrawStraw? Big Line Kits, VP silicone boot kits, gauge installation components, metric adapters & fittings, FASS, Quadzilla, Edge,AirDog, DTT Trans, ISSPRO, HTT Turbo, AFE, Veg pum
I have a very basic draw straw in mine currently, a 1/2" stainless draw straw, and it poses a 1/4 tank issue due to fuel slosh. I have ordered a Vulcan Draw Straw V, and will be installing it as soon as I can. If my module had failed, I would have bought the LibertyFuel Module w/ DrawStraw™ Installed. High flow capabilities with a new sending unit for LESS than the Dealerships would charge for a sender alone.
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