no codes. just alot of smoke and no power. the second setting is for low boost fueling. i think i tried like a 1 or 2 by 4 or 5. not much difference. ill try the 5x5 tomorow. im not sure about the boost fooler. i think that is built into it.

 

also i was thinking you might want to look for exhaust leaks between the head and new manifold and the manifold and turbo. i have heard on some of the HTTs that one of the bolts is a little too long and dosen't allow the turbo to completely seal and when the drive pressure starts to build it'll leak. check that too and see if there are any leaks.

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oh and what do you do with your truck? tow? sled pull? drag race? DD? I honestly think the 66 is too big for a DD but i've never driven one with a manual. i almost believe my 64 is almost too big for DD and Towing......

 

with a leak between the head and manifold, wouldnt i hear it at idle? And would it leave nasty black soot at the leak? thats a good thing to look into though. i havent thought of that. i reused the manifold to head gaskets. and i lost a bolt for the manifold to turbo while installing it and had to drive a day to work work before i could get a new bolt. maybe i blew the seal on it?. the truck is a daily driver, but hot rodded the whole time.

 

also you need to take a look at your drive pressure especially if you are getting ready to pour the coals to it and build up some serious cyl pressure.... you should be able to tap it into the manifold using the copper tubing from a parts store and an oil pressure gauge. the copper will dicipate the heat before it gets to the gauge. a 1:1 boost to manifold gauge is optimal. if the manifold pressure is higher than the boost then something is definately wrong or the turbo is just tooooo big.

 

wow. i aint ever heard of that. that will be fun to test. im guessin the turbo is just too big. So i was thinking of puttin compounds on it. But dont want to spend the money unless its gonna make a huge improvement. I plan on puttin studs fire ring and a helix 2 cam in it too.

 

well i'm gettin' tired. i bet a stock HX35 or HY35 would be sick on top of that 66.... i have no experiance with twins..... i'll leave that to some others..... but i want them bad too..... anyway try those out and let me know what's going on.

 

Twins are definately a possibility. And i stil got my hx35. Anyone got any input on this?

 

a good twin set up is a 62/xx and like a s400 or similar turbo. that 66/74/14 is a big turbo and its gonna take a lot to spool, its really to big for a twin setup on a daily driver but its great for a race only truck. and did you reuse the "head gasket" or the "exhaust gaskets"? id might want to down grade to a 62 or 64 and that cam will help alot. im personally building up a 64/14-s400-H2 with a lot of nitrous and pump mods

 

Yeah, i reused the exhsuast manifold and turbo gaskets. I been talking with II about the turbo and they said for 300 bucks they can put a 62 compressor and housing on it. It will still have the big turbine on it though. It will basicly make what they call the Silver 62. I wish they would have sold me that turbo to begin with.

 

You shouldn't have reused the manifold gaskets. That's potentially a problem. You can get them inexpensively at the Cummins dealership. Also the turbo to manifold gasket should not have been reused....another potential issue. Same thing, they've got them at the Cummins dealer.

A 66 is a big charger and won't spool anywhere near as well as a stock HX-35. You can daily drive it but you're going to have to learn how to drive it with the accelerator. Ease into to let it spool before you get on it. Once it spools though, it should take off like mad.

You can send it back to HTT (I think you said it originally came from HTT) and have them change your exhaust housing for less than what II is quoting you. Since HTT made the charger, I'd go to them, not to mention the cost savings (used to be around $150-$200 for HTT). Personally, I've always had good customer service at HTT and they stand behind their products.

You can check for boost leaks by going to Lowe's or Home Depot and buying a 4" pvc cleanout adapter and cap. Get a threaded male air hose quick connect and drill and tap the cap on the cleanout for the air fitting (you'll still probably need teflon tape so it doesn't leak). Slip the cleanout into the air filter side of your rubber air intake hose going into the turbo. Tighten the band clamp onto the cleanout. Set your gauge on your air compressor to about 40 lbs, then connect your air hose to the male quick connect on the cleanout. If you have no boost leaks, the rubber air intake hose will start stretching out toward you or blow the cleanout off the band clamp so be prepared to unhook your air hose quickly. If you do have a boost leak, you'll hear where the air is escaping and you'll know what you need to address. I don't remember exactly what the parts costs at Lowe's, but it is definitely less than $10. Cheap way to test for boost leaks.

Good luck, Matt

Edit: Missed the fact that it was a Silver Bullet. Disregard HTT suggestions. I'd send it to II since they made it for the exhaust housing change.