Gauge Installation
#1
Gauge Installation
I just got my gauges......finaly for a chiristmas gift. I am planing on installing them on saturday. I got Fuel pres, boost, and pyro and was wondering if there is anything special I need to know before tackling the job. They look pretty strait forward no problem. But was reading some past threads on here on gauge installs and my only question or concern is with the pyro as to where to drill into the manifold and best way to keep most of the shavings out weather it be using grease, shop vac, running the truck ect. I was also seeing something about using an "R" drill bit and tap this is the part that I havent heard of. What is the "R" bit and tap i thought that it was just a 1/4" pipe tap and info you guys might have or any tips that might be helpful would be great thanks in advance guys.
#2
The threads that i have seen on pyro thermocouples is not to drill in the center of the manifold runner as there is a web in there.i belive that the R bit they are talking about is a letter "R" bit you could use a decimal or fractional bit.
I do know that you will need some 1/8 pipe threaded elbows for the fuel sender to clear the AirDog lines and maybe even a short 2" pipe to clear the area of the outlet and return lines.That is unless your still running through the stock Filter housing.
I do know that you will need some 1/8 pipe threaded elbows for the fuel sender to clear the AirDog lines and maybe even a short 2" pipe to clear the area of the outlet and return lines.That is unless your still running through the stock Filter housing.
#3
On a second gen, like yours and mine - I've installed so many of these things I can do it nearly with my eyes closed.
So, I offer you some free advice:
1. When drilling the manifold, go slow and step up ever size you have available to you to make it easier to tap after.
2. Take your time. Think, prep and clean-up. Use plenty of lube and use a decent magnet and a framing nail to get inside the hole when you think you are done and start to clean it out.
3. Make sure the truck is cold - Yes, I know that might be obvious but you'll thank me later for not burning yourself.
4. Did I mention go slow, take your time. I'm serious. If you're planning on replacing this manifold any time soon be warned that an oversized hole will not work, will fry the thermocouple wire and will make you loose boost as well as make a good mess.
So, I offer you some free advice:
1. When drilling the manifold, go slow and step up ever size you have available to you to make it easier to tap after.
2. Take your time. Think, prep and clean-up. Use plenty of lube and use a decent magnet and a framing nail to get inside the hole when you think you are done and start to clean it out.
3. Make sure the truck is cold - Yes, I know that might be obvious but you'll thank me later for not burning yourself.
4. Did I mention go slow, take your time. I'm serious. If you're planning on replacing this manifold any time soon be warned that an oversized hole will not work, will fry the thermocouple wire and will make you loose boost as well as make a good mess.
The following 2 users liked this post by Wyatt Earp:
blkjack (12-24-2009),
Canadiankid (05-18-2011)
#4
Although Mine is a 3rd Gen maybe this will apply..
I unbloted and dropped the turbo a few inches and then put tape over the turbo to preven shavings from dropping in.. The manifold has a seperator inside so I used the rear port for the pyro (people say that the rears are hotter than the fornts)..
Here is a photo.. ony took an extra 1/2 hour to hour...
Gerry
I unbloted and dropped the turbo a few inches and then put tape over the turbo to preven shavings from dropping in.. The manifold has a seperator inside so I used the rear port for the pyro (people say that the rears are hotter than the fornts)..
Here is a photo.. ony took an extra 1/2 hour to hour...
Gerry
#6
1. locate a point 2 inches from the turbo mounting flange in the center of the manifold 2.move forward or rearward 5/8 of an inch and use center punch to mark for drilling. start by drilling a small pilot hole 3. drill a11/32 hole if the probe uses a 1/8 npt fitting 4. drill a 7/16 inch hole if the probe uses a1/4 npt fitting 5.tap hole to proper depth fitting should be flush inside with manifold wall 6.probe should be beyond manifold wall .300 to .700 of an inch so you will get correct measurements of egt's i hope this helps
The following users liked this post:
kayden101 (03-24-2010)
#7
#9
#10
Now that I got the gauges and pod I was looking at them and putting the pod in my truck do you take the old pillar trim out and put the new one in its place or do you attach it to the OE trim? I took the OE trim out and put the new pod in and seem to fit pretty well without the oe trim it will just need the screws to hold it nicely in place from what I can tell. What has everyone else done or how is it supposed to go properly?