Do you have a p/n?? Looked on there and some are pretty pricey.

if you go with a pressure snubber - make sure you get one for diesel (there are different ones)

 

DO I fill the guage itself with the tasty antifreeze?
And to bleed the fuel side of the isolator do i just loosen that screw and prime it by turning the key till I get fuel outta it?
Thanks, hoping to get this done tommorrow.

 

No I don't. I was just posting up a website that I know of that has needle valves. More'n Likely you could find a cheaper one at the local hardware/auto parts store. I have an electric gauge and didn't use a needle valve.

 

Ok, on Saterday I ried to finish the guage, I had a 15psi reading than it dropped to about 5 but I know I had a leak from the 90* elbow where the compression fitting goes into the nylon fuel line. So after an hour of it leaking when sitting I assume it got airbound an the truck took forever to start and the airdog motor was rapidly trying to prime.

On Sunday at work I fixed the leaks and bled the isolator and added more 50/50 antifreeze in the rubber hose to the guage from the isolator. The truck starts fine and doesnt leak but I dont have a reading.

Can I just use copper line or brake line directly to the guage and not use the stupid isolator?
I dont care about fuel in the cab and I heard of people not having prolems with pressure spikes during start up and I just want it to work.
Thanks!!

 

Of course you can - but you must make sure you do a good install.

Dont use copper - the vibration from the engine can cause the soft copper to break.

Just get yourself a 1/8" needle valve, some 1/8" DOT Approved air brake line (5 feet or so), and some 1/4" air brake line. The 1/8" line carries the fuel to the guage, and slip the 1/4" line over the 1/8" to protect it where the line goes through the grommet in the firewall.

The 1/8" needle valve should look something like this:

Valve,Needle,1/8 In - Needle Valves - Valves - Plumbing : Grainger Industrial Supply

But you may find one at your local hardware store.


The following info is courtesy of Infidel on DTR:

After the install start your
engine with the needle valve closed then open it slowly till someone in
the cab signals you that it's just reading pressure. If you tighten down
the packing nut under the valve handle the setting can't move. The valve
will control pulsation and buzzing and can also be shut down in the
unlikely event that you have a leak. Without a valve to restrict the flow
the gauge will pulsate so badly that you won't be able to read it in the
short time before it self destructs.

Parts list; 1/8'' needle valve - $2.50 from the hardware store, plastic
oil pressure tubing kit that comes with the compression fittings - under $10
from any auto parts store. 1/4'' tubing for protective sleeve - less than $2.
Gauge is your choice and may come with tubing. The pressure gauges I
use cost around $10 from here https://www.surpluscenter.com/home.asp , bringing the total cost to less than $20 and a
couple hours of your time.

 

This way sounds ten times better than the plastic tubing and isolator.
Will gather parts for this today and try and get it going as soon as I can. Thanks again!!!

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Found something like a needle valve at my job today. instead of that turn screw its a bleed valve like on a caliper. Would this work or should I go elsewhere and get the valve you linked me too?
Thanks for the help!

 

No - you need a "needle valve" or pressure snubber (one for diesel).

 

ok thanks, will get one tommorow